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Discussion Starter #1
My K5 is coming up on it's 600 mile check next week. I notice that my cold or warm idle speed is hanging at around 900-1000. Is this to low for the bike, particularily at warm-up? Is it something I need to bring to the dealers attention?

Thanks,

Bill
 

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On a 650, running temp idle speed should be between 1000 & 1200 rpm. If it's falling below that when warm it should definitly be adjusted.
 

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It is quite easy to adjust the idle yourself on a 650. Remove one screw and pull off the engine hood (hump cover). The idle adjustment screw is up high, on the left side as you look forward. A standard philips screwdriver fits it. With the engine warmed up, turn it until your tach shows the speed that you want. I find that 1200 rpm is nice - the bike idles quieter and has less pronounced engine braking. Turning the screw to the right increases the idle speed, turning it to the left drops the idle speed. The mechanic at the dealership always sets mine too low (1000 rpm). When I get home I simply set it where I prefer it. The owners manual states that 1000 rpm to 1200 rpm is acceptable, and I think it shows a (poor) picture of where the adjustment screw is located.

Note: There are tabs that hold the engine cover in place after you remove the single screw. You will see indents at the bottom rear of the cover on both sides. Pull outward at each indent and you will hear the tab click free. Then lift up on the rear of the cover until it clears the seat and pull backward slightly to remove it.
 

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Wyldman said:
On a 650, running temp idle speed should be between 1000 & 1200 rpm. If it's falling below that when warm it should definitly be adjusted.
pauljo said:
...The owners manual states that 1000 rpm to 1200 rpm is acceptable...
Interesting. I haven't looked at the Owner's Manual specs, but I'm pretty sure my Service Manual says 1200 RPM +/- 100 RPM (thus 1100 - 1300).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the quick answers! :p

I think I'll just adjust it myself. As my dealer has never sold a 650 before mine, I'm cautious about the quality/type of work I'm going to get next week on the 600 check!!!!!

BTW, to those who answered my post last week about a high speed shimmy, I adjusted the shock setting to 4. What a difference overall! The around town ride is MUCH more comfortable. I also found that my tire pressure was down to 28 rear 31 front! Big difference after inflation. ( But I've got to get angled valve stems for this thing!!!! )


Bill
 

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Bill said:
...I also found that my tire pressure was down to 28 rear...
:shock:

A lot of dealers seem to be not inflating the tires properly on setup and delivery.

Tire pressure, especially in the rear, needs to be checked frequently (major safety issue, as well as tire life issue).

31 front is fine, but 28 rear? It should be close to 40.
 

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When I got Zeke back from the 600 mile service (actually 900) I noticed the idle speed a good bit higher at 1200, up from 900 to 1000 rpm when I got it new.

I thought mebbe it was cuz I complained about too much slop in the throttle, and he cranked it up too tight. Well, it seems to have less of that deceleration, and is smoother idling (as if it wasn't smooth enough already).

I guess my mechanic knows his stuff after all. Still, $230 USD was a stiff jolt for something I could have done myself.
 

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Assuming all they did on your service visit was to change the fluids, then yes $230 is pretty steep. But it's more reasonable if they checked the torque on all of fasteners recommended in the 600 mile service.
What do bike dealers get for labor now? I know our local car dealers are charging close to if not over $100 per hour. I think when I asked at the time of sale, I was quoted something in the ballpark of what you paid for the 600 mile service. I spent $60 for the service manuals instead.
Already own the necessary tools.
 

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You may also find that the LCD display will indicate a fault with the fuel Injection system if your idle speed is set too low. Mine was set at 1000rpm at time of delivery, and the FI indicated an issue. Raising the idle speed to 1200 to cured the problem.

It’s good to remember that you only have two wheels on a motorcycle, and these are your only contact with the road. Many shops are responsible, yet many overlook important details. Checking tyre pressures, conditions, coolant level, oil level, brake fluid level, and front and rear bulbs are essential components of motorcycle ownership. I would recommend doing this on a weekly basis (at least) if you ride ever day, and each time you ride if you ride at weekends only.

Enjoy.
 

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I checked my tires this AM, first time in over two weeks. :oops:

They were pretty close. ( I had them at 41R, 33F).

Front was 31, rear was just below 40 (I think), because I let out a lot of air wrestling with the cramped space and skinning several knuckles on the ABS ring on the rear wheel.

It's a lot sharper edged than the disk brake is, and it's in the way more.

I just used my regular bicycle pump to top them off.
Didn't take long.
 

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Dutch said:
Paul thanks for the idle information. I've had a lot of engine braking since I got mine back from the dealer for the 4,000 mile service. I adjusted the idle and the engine braking is less. Thanks again!
It definitely makes a difference. I find myself using the brakes a bit more now though! :wink:
 

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They torqued fasteners, adjused stuff, etc as needed. 4 hous labour at $48/hr.
I won't complain anymore. $70/ hr? YIKES!
 
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