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Discussion Starter #1
Recently a guy emails calls me needing a new ICU for a wrecked Burgman 650 , he says his was damaged in the wreck and that’s flashing some anti theft code . I know from nothing about his code problem but I tell him I have one same part number he needs , I tell him it came out of a running never wrecked 2006 with 8000 miles on it . I drove this bike before I took it apart so I know all the electrical bits are good , the only problem the bike had was a title problem . We agree on a price and I FEDEX it the next day .

A few days later the guy calls and tells me he installed the one I sold him and it didn’t work . He then tells me he hired a “Suzuki mechanic” to come over and check out his bike . He then tells me the one I sent him is also flashing some kind of anti theft code and his “Suzuki mechanic” tells him the one I sold him is no good and he wants a refund . :rolleyes: I reply that the one I sold him was taken out of a running bike and that it was a good ICU , and that no one who sell electrical parts like these give refunds . ( now I know why) Now I do feel bad that things didn’t work out for this guy , but I have no clue as to what or how the conditions were or if he is trying to scam me . All I know is it was working when I removed it from the bike and that ends it for me . I have sold a few ICU’s and no one else ever had a problem , so my question is if any one has a clue what went wrong here ? I find it rather odd that (if it’s true?) that the one I sold him was acting the same as the one that was supposedly damaged in the accident . WTF I really don’t know for sure if there is any thing like a anti theft code ?

Any ideas ? TheReaper!
 

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WTF:confused: Why, why, why?

Sam:D
 

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I think he has another issue. What country is the buyer in? We don't have the anti theft stuff on our USA models. And his “Suzuki Mechanic”, if true, probably has seen a Burgman for an oil change or such but never has done a major repair.

When I bought my 1st 2008 650 for Copart auction as a buildable wreck, I used almost everything but the tupperware from the 08. It would not start. I pulled the codes and it said a few things were bad. So I unplugged all the sensors from the wiring harness and reseated them all. I found out the TOS (Tip Over Sensor) needed to be removed and cycled to get the weight inside to go to the bottom.

I think the buyer just needs to check all connectors and look for pinched or broken wires. I've been doing automotive electrical work most of my life and a open ground or loose connector is #1 and a blown fuse is #2 of the most over looked issues during a "WRECK" rebuild. I'd say "Stand Tall and stay your ground" . You may get a "BAD" rate on Ebay but you can challenge them too.
 

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I do not have a newer AN650 shop manual however looking at the '07 400 manual it appears there was--on the E-02, 19, 24 and 54 (UK, EU, Australia, Israel) country code models--an anti-theft system that linked the ignition switch/key and the ECM:



It is commonplace for anti-theft systems to use RFID chips in the key, and an antenna surrounding the switch to read an ID code,then send it to the ECU for validation. On the '07 400 if the code is not verified DTC C42 is thrown.

The '06 650 may have had such a system...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think he has another issue. What country is the buyer in? We don't have the anti theft stuff on our USA models. And his “Suzuki Mechanic”, if true, probably has seen a Burgman for an oil change or such but never has done a major repair.

When I bought my 1st 2008 650 for Copart auction as a buildable wreck, I used almost everything but the tupperware from the 08. It would not start. I pulled the codes and it said a few things were bad. So I unplugged all the sensors from the wiring harness and reseated them all. I found out the TOS (Tip Over Sensor) needed to be removed and cycled to get the weight inside to go to the bottom.

I think the buyer just needs to check all connectors and look for pinched or broken wires. I've been doing automotive electrical work most of my life and a open ground or loose connector is #1 and a blown fuse is #2 of the most over looked issues during a "WRECK" rebuild. I'd say "Stand Tall and stay your ground" . You may get a "BAD" rate on Ebay but you can challenge them too.
This wasn't through eBay I think he found me here in the classified or Craigslist , and he is from Florida . As far as the ICU being good I know it was good no question .

TheReaper!
 

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I still think the buyer has a different issue than a bad ICU unit. Like I said, he needs to recheck all other sensors and look over the wiring harness for damage. These are VERY common in a crash and overlooked when a ROOKIE puts one back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I still think the buyer has a different issue than a bad ICU unit. Like I said, he needs to recheck all other sensors and look over the wiring harness for damage. These are VERY common in a crash and overlooked when a ROOKIE puts one back together.
If he is not trying to scam me , I agree 100% . I'm no mechanic or electrical engineer , but I do know that these computerized electrical systems can be pretty tricky especially after a wreck . A broken wire , a grounded wire , a cracked connection that isn't visible etc. etc . , can give an novice nightmares . I also know that a couple of wrong wires coming together can fry an ICU .

TheReaper!
 

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As has been mentioned some models have an immobiser e.g. later models in Australia & NZ. Never know the guy might have an imported model 650. With globalisation and the increasing migration of people (& often accompanied household belongings) it's becoming increasingly common to find vehicles personally imported in other markets. Even in NZ it's fairly common to see bikes being sold that originated elsewhere especially the UK/USA.

One method to protect yourself from a potential scammer attempting to swap a part is to secretly mark your item in some inconspicuous area & photograph it as you package the item.

I've caught a few people out (attempting to swap a bad item for my good item - then claim my supplied part is bad etc) using this method.

YMMV
 

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<<<SNIP>>>

One method to protect yourself from a potential scammer attempting to swap a part is to secretly mark your item in some inconspicuous area & photograph it as you package the item.

I've caught a few people out (attempting to swap a bad item for my good item - then claim my supplied part is bad etc) using this method.

YMMV

I bet the buyer could throw 10 ICU's at it and they'd all be bad till he fixes the other issues I'd also bet he has......
 

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A bit of history. A day after I purchased B2 in 2009 (and a day after I had ridden it 600+ miles home from Sydney) it had a problem (which ultimately turned out to be a bad PPPS) but the FI error message indicated a bad ECU was also a possibility. I purchased an ECU from eBay US and had it shipped to Australia. Once installed, the dash immediately displayed anti theft codes as the Aus market has anti theft as standard post 2008 (and ECUs destined for the U.S. market do not perform sensor ring checking, nor does the wiring harness have the necessary signal connector).

I still have the (perfectly good) US market ECU if anyone requires one, but I cannot imagine any US market B650 will throw up an anti theft message - only conclusion is that it was originally destined for another market. Do Canadian models have anti-theft? If so, a change of ECU will also require reprogramming of the key to the ECU.
 

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The guy in Florida is me and I am not a scammer nor do not know what I am doing The Suzuki Mechanic is a well respected Tech for 30 years he brought a ECU from a used bike plugged it in and oboy it fired up with no problem and no codes I think the Reaper is a Honest person and didn't know about the anti theft built into these bikes the Tech told me there is two models that have this in US sold bikes o ya wait until you see this project that I am building . God bless keep the info flowing .
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The guy in Florida is me and I am not a scammer nor do not know what I am doing The Suzuki Mechanic is a well respected Tech for 30 years he brought a ECU from a used bike plugged it in and oboy it fired up with no problem and no codes I think the Reaper is a Honest person and didn't know about the anti theft built into these bikes the Tech told me there is two models that have this in US sold bikes o ya wait until you see this project that I am building . God bless keep the info flowing .

Now I remember how you found me , it was here on BUSU . As far as me being honest I can assure I am , and the ICU I sold you came out of a running 2006 with 8000 miles on it . The bike was in perfect working order , the only reason it was parted out is because the owner who sold it to me had a title problem with it .

The only reason I do this is because I like it and learn from it , there is no money in it at best some free parts for me . The reason I started this thread is to possibly learn some thing from it , I figured that some one here had possibly had a like experience and might all learn some thing from this .

As far as these ICU’s go , apparently they are not plug and play ? All I know is that it was working when removed , and that is was the correct part number for your bike . I’ve parted out 3 of these burgman 650’s and have sold all 3 of the ICU’s that came out of them . You are the only one who had a problem and I would like to know why .

Presently I am trying to learn EFI trouble shooting , and one of the things I’ve learned so far is a crossed wire can fry an ICU . I wouldn’t touch one of my bikes or cars electrical systems , I would take it to a certified tech because I know all to well my own limitations .

TheReaper!
 

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I think he has another issue. What country is the buyer in? We don't have the anti theft stuff on our USA models. And his “Suzuki Mechanic”, if true, probably has seen a Burgman for an oil change or such but never has done a major repair.

When I bought my 1st 2008 650 for Copart auction as a buildable wreck, I used almost everything but the tupperware from the 08. It would not start. I pulled the codes and it said a few things were bad. So I unplugged all the sensors from the wiring harness and reseated them all. I found out the TOS (Tip Over Sensor) needed to be removed and cycled to get the weight inside to go to the bottom.

I think the buyer just needs to check all connectors and look for pinched or broken wires. I've been doing automotive electrical work most of my life and a open ground or loose connector is #1 and a blown fuse is #2 of the most over looked issues during a "WRECK" rebuild. I'd say "Stand Tall and stay your ground" . You may get a "BAD" rate on Ebay but you can challenge them too.
+1 As the world's greatest cynic, my advice is that if it was okay when you removed it from your bike it is VERY unlikely that the unit is now electronically faulty. Suzuki Mechanic? don't make me laugh! He's connected it up wrong, or some sensor is not working correctly. Stay your ground, pal.
 

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Well, if he is indeed a real Suzuki mechanic, why doesn't he just hook up his SDS (Suzuki Diagnosis System) and let the ECU itself tell him what the problem is?

Hint: Bailing wire can't be used to connect to the ECU.
 

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sozo1race what part of Florida do you live in? If it's any where near Tampa Bay area what is the name of the Suzuki Mechanic?
 

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My only experience with ECU may be off topic, but I pass it on anyway.

A long story (see below) to get to the ECM INFO about two models (S/Ns) of ECMs for 2007 Burgman 650.

Short version is the 12v Input to the ECM was shorted. I found a replacement on E-Bay with same P/N. That fixed the problem (symptoms and the situation are in long story below if interested). Interesting part is: I also later found out on this site that the 2007 had a customer satisfaction issue with Idle Control (first year they did it with computer or something). I called SUZUKI with my Scooter Model and S/N and was told I could get the modification. A new ECM and Idle Control Valve. So, there are two different models or S/Ns for 2007 ECMs.

I did let them replace everything even though I had not had an Idle Problem. I kept the used E Bay ECM that I had used before I found out about the Customer Satisfaction Issue and still have it (gave Suzuki the original one for exchange).

LONG STORY on how all this happened./U]

My 2007 Burgman 650 had been having a weak battery indication a couple times. Some folks from home town in MO were coming to TN for their anniversary and we were to meet for a ride on the Dragon. Anyway, the battery gave up the ghost on a Sunday evening and I was to meet them Monday. That sets the stage for rest of the story.

I had an old battery (5 yr old) from a Kawasaki 800 Cruiser. I had replaced it for age when it was still performing OK. I charged it up a bit and put it in the Burgman 650. Seemed to be OK.

So, I met them Monday and we rode including the Dragon to Deals Gap, NC (about 60 to end of Dragon) for a break. Friend said, I smell something like a battery." I was not smelling, but looked under seat and felt for a leak or something (it was hot to the touch).

We went on to Cherokee, NC (just south of there about 10 miles) when the dash went crazy, engine quit. Battery was showing very low (like couple votes).

To shorten story -- got home (about 70 miles) via friend picking me up in my truck. Found a blown fuse (forget now, but a fuse that blew every time I turned ignition on and tried to start). Turned out a check for short from the fuse revealed a low resistance.

One thing that 12 v went to was the ECM (FINALLY GETTING TO THE ECM). When I disconnected the ECM Power Input Plug, the short went away. Found and ECM on E Bay that had same P/N as mine (for a 2007). Took a chance and bought it for $110. That got rid of the short.

I had all ready bought a new battery and had it charged up. So, I ran the Scooter on the Battery with Rectifier/Regulator disconnected and ran some tests on the Rect/Reg output (used a dummy load of some headlight bulbs). I ended up replacing the Rect/Reg.

Anyway, all was OK with new Rect/Reg and Used ECM and then New ECM.

By the way - the reason I suspected the Rect/Reg that was that EVERY Light bulb that was on BLEW out when the thing died in NC. Apparently, the 12 V input to the ECM was also blown. So, I was suspicious the Rect/Reg spiked or something (maybe due to the wrong battery in use). :confused::rolleyes:
 

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+1 As the world's greatest cynic, my advice is that if it was okay when you removed it from your bike it is VERY unlikely that the unit is now electronically faulty. Suzuki Mechanic? don't make me laugh! He's connected it up wrong, or some sensor is not working correctly. Stay your ground, pal.
My maternal grandfather, a Scotsman and stationary steam engineer, always told us that "The last time any machine started and ran well, may well have been the last time it started and ran well."
 
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