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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I advise not throwing parts at it to fix it. Keep it simple.

All dash lights get power first from the battery thru the two 40 AMP fuses under the left side seat, then thru the ignition switch, then thru the 'Signal' fuse.

Like I said above, the 3 connectors UNDER the battery box, two RED and 1 BLACK. The 2 RED feed the 2 fuses under the seat directly from the battery and rectifier.
The fuses all checked good. The 40 amp "main" that the fuse goes in checks bad. The cvt 40 amp cvt is good. All connectors by the battery and solenoid are good. No corrison and not burnt. What do you suggest I do next. Please advise. Thanks
Steveis good.
 

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If all that checks out then the next likely culprit is the ignition switch. Your going to need to remove the front fairing to get to the plug at the bottom of the key switch housing, Check to see if you are getting power to the switch at the big red wire going into the plug. If so then your going to have to test the various output wires to see if you get power out. That's more complicated because different wires get power depending on key position. At one position or the other you will get power out of all the different wires. I don't have my service manual handy or I would give you the color coding sequence.

Alternately you could just pull the plug, take out the two screws under it and remove the plate they hold in. Under it you will find a plastic switch housing. Lift it out and gently pry it apart being sure to not let small parts fall out. Examine the contacts inside it for burning or arcing.
 

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The fuses all checked good. The 40 amp "main" that the fuse goes in checks bad. The cvt 40 amp cvt is good. All connectors by the battery and solenoid are good. No corrison and not burnt. What do you suggest I do next. Please advise. Thanks
Steveis good.
You say all connectors by the battery and solenoid are good but did you follow the wires on under the battery tray to where they end in blade connectors. This will be about a foot away from the battery. It will not be on the two large battery cables. Those go nowhere except to the starter. But off the red positive cable there are two smaller red wires branching off. From the black negative cable there is one smaller black wire. You will have to disconnect the battery and remove it from the bike then remove the tray it sits in to get to the blade connectors. These are what fails.
 

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Look at item 9 on this fiche 3006 2009 Suzuki AN650 Battery | Part Shark That is the cable that connects the battery positive terminal to the solenoid on top of the battery cover. See the two smaller wires that branch off it and end in plugs. Those are the ones you need to check out.
 

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Update for today. I checked all fuses with a multimeter. All checked out good. The 40 amp fuse circled in red is good but the fuse connector the fuse goes in is bad. The one circled in green checks out good.
What does the one circled in red come from and or go to? It's the one closest to the front of bike.
As a reminder, when I connected a jumper from cigarette lighter from jumper vehicle to cigarette lighter to my dead bike the dash would light up and bike would start but when I disconnected the jumper the bike would die. I believe this is a vital clue as to what my problem and or solution could be.
I appreciate your input.
Thanks



View attachment 98697
fix the fuse connector that is bad first, before you tear anything else apart you gotta do it anyway, an it MAY be the problem,
 

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Without pulling it apart the 'MAIN' 40 amp connector should look like these pictures below. If so it may be popped out of that socket and replaced. If not poppable, I will post another possibility.

Wood Gun accessory Fashion accessory Metal Bullet
Amber Bullet Trigger Gun accessory Wood
 
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A modified "Western Union" splice with Heat Shrink with sealant inside.

 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Fuses are good, battery is good, rectifier is good. I will check the ignition switch this weekend, weather permitting. May need some help on how to check. Electrical is not one of my strong points.
Thanks for everyone's input/advice.
I will update again.
 

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It's nice to see someone who doesn't give up. Technical skills are good but patience and persistence after so many dead ends is highly admired by me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I now have access to ignition switch. Before I take it out what do I need to do first ? Do I need to put battery back in for testing? Can it be tested if I take it out, continuity? Again, electrical is not one of my strong points.
Thanks for your assistance.
Tire Hood Wheel Steering part Automotive tire

Looks like I have a bad ignition switch. I touch 2 connectors with needle nose pliers and my dash lights came on. HiThe stealership wants 375 dollars. Where can I get it cheaper? Doing price checks now.
 

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First off be aware that you don't have to remove the whole key housing to remove the electrical part of the assembly. Just remove the plug and the panel behind it and the electrical part can be removed with the key housing remaining on the bike.

As for will it fit the 2009. As long as you live in the USA I can assure it will. The electrical portion is the same on all the 650s and 400s in the USA. You can take the switch out of any of them and install it in any of the others. Other countries have an immobilizer their circuit. I don't know if this will cause a change in the electrical part of the key switch assembly. They might be the same, I just don't know.
 

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You will need a security bit to take the screws out. They look like a regular Torx head screw but there is a post in the center of them that keeps a standard Torx bit from working. You can buy a security bit at most hardware stores.
 
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