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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Stranded, turn key on, no lights on dash, only clock working. Put in new battery, no change. Old battery check came back bad. Checked and replaced all fuses including 40 amp fuse. No burnt wires on battery. Clip connectors by battery or good. No codes because no power to give a code.
Odd things is, when I connect a battery jumper from cigarette lighter from a running vehicle to cigarette lighter to my dead 650 it will start but when I disconnect it it dies. It will not start when I connect charger and still no dash lights, still dead.
What could be the problem?
90% of the problem is not knowing what caused the problem.
Any suggestions?
It has less than 22,000 miles.
 

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2007 Burgman 650, Tow Pac trike kit
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Maybe this thread will help. In a nutshell, aftermarket running lights on my trike kit were shorting out and blowing a 10amp fuse. Do you have any mods wired into the electrical system?

 

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I'm bettin a nickle on ignition switch (key) failure, great to know that the ciggie lighter plug will carry the juice to start it! might help to know if the underseat light works
 

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Scooper, go slow here.

Do NOT jump start the bike using power to the accessory plug (Cigarette Lighter). That has real small gauge wires and you will burn up some stuff.

Under the battery is a tray and under that tray is three connectors. You live in Louisiana and it is moist so corrosion can happen. It is a common issue for those three connectors to corrode.
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AS Mikey says check that underseat light, a few guys including me have had a short on the light wiring under the seat.
You havn't been messin in that area have you? Check the wiring isn't pinched anywhere.
Were you riding the bike when it stopped or was it parked up in the garage, when was the last time it was running?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
AS Mikey says check that underseat light, a few guys including me have had a short on the light wiring under the seat.
You havn't been messin in that area have you? Check the wiring isn't pinched anywhere.
Were you riding the bike when it stopped or was it parked up in the garage, when was the last time it was running?
I've been riding it da
 

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Don't just replace all fuses. Check each one as you remove it and try and identify if one has blown,then see which number it is. Could be that the new fuse you put in just blows straight away so you need to test each one with a meter.
Once you know which fuse is blowing we can then check wiring related to that fuse.
When you came out of the store did you put anything under the seat?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Don't just replace all fuses. Check each one as you remove it and try and identify if one has blown,then see which number it is. Could be that the new fuse you put in just blows straight away so you need to test each one with a meter.
Once you know which fuse is blowing we can then check wiring related to that fuse.
When you came out of the store did you put anything under the seat?
Put nothing under the seat. Just removed my helmet. I visually Inspected each fuse. All looked good. A long time ago I turned seat light off. Don't use it. Wire is free not pinched.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Could the rectifier part number...32800-10g20 be the culprit for symptoms first mentioned? Where is it located and how do you test it if there is no electrical power? What exactly does a rectifier do?
 

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I advise not throwing parts at it to fix it. Keep it simple.

All dash lights get power first from the battery thru the two 40 AMP fuses under the left side seat, then thru the ignition switch, then thru the 'Signal' fuse.

Like I said above, the 3 connectors UNDER the battery box, two RED and 1 BLACK. The 2 RED feed the 2 fuses under the seat directly from the battery and rectifier.
 
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Check the signal fuse in the fuse box on the air cleaner cover. Even if it looks good it could be blown. Check it with a multimeter or just replace it with a new one and see what happens. If it is good then the next thing I would check is the wires under the seat that Dave referred to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Update for today. I checked all fuses with a multimeter. All checked out good. The 40 amp fuse circled in red is good but the fuse connector the fuse goes in is bad. The one circled in green checks out good.
What does the one circled in red come from and or go to? It's the one closest to the front of bike.
As a reminder, when I connected a jumper from cigarette lighter from jumper vehicle to cigarette lighter to my dead bike the dash would light up and bike would start but when I disconnected the jumper the bike would die. I believe this is a vital clue as to what my problem and or solution could be.
I appreciate your input.
Thanks



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main is from the battery + terminal and goes to the rektafryer and ignition switch

the cvt is from the battery + to starter solenoid + and goes to the cvt controller

ref manualslib dot com (horrible scan) 650 service manual pages 457-460
 

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The one circled in red is the main fuse that powers everything on your bike except the starter and the CVT. It is powered by one of those three wires under the seat that Dave talked about. The main power lead that comes off the positive side of the battery has two smaller wires spliced into it.

One of those goes about a foot out to a plug. The other side of that plug goes to the main fuse. The output from the main fuse goes into the wiring harness and feeds the fuse panel at the front of the bike.

The other wire does the same thing but the wire from the plug goes to the CVT fuse. From there the power goes into the wiring harness and then on to the controller for the CVT.

The plugs mentioned for those two wires are a known problem area. They corrode and short out. Then you have a loss of power. Remove the battery and the tray it sits in. You will then see the wires. Check the plugs for any sign of melting or corrosion. Also look at the negative wire coming off the battery. It has a smaller black wire branching off it that goes to a similar plug then on into the wiring harness to provide the ground for everything on the bike. It can fail just like the two positive wire plugs.

If you find a problem with one of the plugs cut it out and replace it with a new connector. Be sure to use one that is rated to handle 40 amps.
 
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