[Bob Monkhouse]

Hi guys, I hail from England, I've registered on the BURGMAN USA forum as I am unable to register on the UK one for some mysterious reason. I'm looking for advice on the problems my Burgman suddenly started having a few days ago. The first sign of something amiss was when I set off from a junction and it was jerky setting off, then it hit the rev limiter so I backed off and it changed up, hit the limiter again so I repeated shutting off and it changed up again. I managed to get to my destination and back again at up to 80mph but now it won't change out of 1st gear. I've taken the pps off to see if it's damaged but it looks OK, starting the scooter and revving it on the stand throws up an F1 code without the pps connected but put it back in and the code disappears. I've stuck a piece of wire in the obd socket to see what codes pop up but nothing untoward comes up. Anyone any suggestions as to where I go next? I'm a classic scooter tuner (Lambrettas in the main) and make my own parts and have a background in engineering so I'm pretty competent repairing all manner of mechanical equipment but I'm stumped with the Burgman at the moment, it goes against the grain to take it to a repair shop, something I've never done with any vehicle I've ever owned in 0ver 45 years so I would prefer to fix the Burgy myself if someone can point me in the right direction. Thanks for any and all suggestions. Bob.

 

[Buffalo]

The FI with the PPS out was because the ECU was not getting a signal from it as was confirmed when you reinstalled it and the FI went away.

Shifting issues like that with no accompanying FI and code usually indicate an internal CVT issue. Likely causes are the keys in the primary pulley or the o'ring under the shims on the outside end of the primary pulley.

The CVT is not hard to work on once you get it out of the bike. Getting it out is the hard part. You have to remove all the body work from the seat forward. Then unhook any wires and hoses that might interfer, remove the engine mounting bolts then raise the engine up out of the frame far enough to allow the CVT to be unbolted and slid off the side of the engine.

 

[rjs987]

... then raise the engine up out of the frame far enough to allow the CVT to be unbolted and slid off the side of the engine.

You mean to raise the frame up far enough and let the engine drop below the frame so the CVT drops enough to enable it to slide off the engine. This method does not require the engine and swing arm to be totally removed from the frame.

Are you certain the center stand position switch is not just starting to fail? That could cause the CVT to remain in a lower pulley ratio. (no real "gears" on this bike).

 

[mikeyMarine]

yeh i vote center stand switch intermittent too, cause it's easier to monkey with, no tupperware removal!

 

[maccecht]

You need to test the PPS. My 14 plate done similar antics no FI code sticking in one gear or another mainly 1st or 4th. I stuck a new PPS in job sorted. No visual damage on the PPS but it didn't operate smoothly bike had 56k on it. You can have my old one as a test mule it will prove if that's the issue. I am in Rochester Kent happy to post I never chuck anything away

 

[Buffalo]

You mean to raise the frame up far enough and let the engine drop below the frame so the CVT drops enough to enable it to slide off the engine. This method does not require the engine and swing arm to be totally removed from the frame.

Are you certain the center stand position switch is not just starting to fail? That could cause the CVT to remain in a lower pulley ratio. (no real "gears" on this bike).

Yeah it's raise the frame. My old age is showing

If it were the center stand switch then he would not have been able to get to shift to higher ratios like he said he did.

 

[rjs987]

...

If it were the center stand switch then he would not have been able to get to shift to higher ratios like he said he did.

But if it was intermittent he would... sometimes. But still worth the easy check.

 

[Bob Monkhouse]

You mean to raise the frame up far enough and let the engine drop below the frame so the CVT drops enough to enable it to slide off the engine. This method does not require the engine and swing arm to be totally removed from the frame.

Are you certain the center stand position switch is not just starting to fail? That could cause the CVT to remain in a lower pulley ratio. (no real "gears" on this bike).

I haven't tried that yet but it will be next on the list, I'm hoping for an easy fix as I have seven or eight engines to build and a load of machining to do so if it's the cvt then the bike is going to have to wait a few weeks before I can take it out.

 

[Bob Monkhouse]

The FI with the PPS out was because the ECU was not getting a signal from it as was confirmed when you reinstalled it and the FI went away.

Shifting issues like that with no accompanying FI and code usually indicate an internal CVT issue. Likely causes are the keys in the primary pulley or the o'ring under the shims on the outside end of the primary pulley.

The CVT is not hard to work on once you get it out of the bike. Getting it out is the hard part. You have to remove all the body work from the seat forward. Then unhook any wires and hoses that might interfer, remove the engine mounting bolts then raise the engine up out of the frame far enough to allow the CVT to be unbolted and slid off the side of the engine.

Thanks, I was hoping it wouldn't be something mechanical but it's looking that way, what I didn't mention is that I've had an annoying low frequency rattle since I bought the scooter which indicates wear in the drive somewhere. Someone else has suggested the centre stand switch so I'll try that first but I'm not hopeful. As I've replied to someone else I was hoping for a reasonably simple fix but it's not looking likely, I've got a pile of engine rebuilds and machining to do on a number of Lambretta engines so I'm going to spend a couple of hours on the Burgman to see if it is the switch but otherwise I'm going to have to leave it for a couple of weeks then I can get stuck in to it without having to break off. I was hoping to be able to ride it regularly this summer but until the Lambretta stuff is done I'm stuck with a broken Burgman. ☹

 

[Bob Monkhouse]

Thanks, I was hoping it wouldn't be something mechanical but it's looking that way, what I didn't mention is that I've had an annoying low frequency rattle since I bought the scooter which indicates wear in the drive somewhere. Someone else has suggested the centre stand switch so I'll try that first but I'm not hopeful. As I've replied to someone else I was hoping for a reasonably simple fix but it's not looking likely, I've got a pile of engine rebuilds and machining to do on a number of Lambretta engines so I'm going to spend a couple of hours on the Burgman to see if it is the switch but otherwise I'm going to have to leave it for a couple of weeks then I can get stuck in to it without having to break off. I was hoping to be able to ride it regularly this summer but until the Lambretta stuff is done I'm stuck with a broken Burgman. ☹

Are any special tools required for the job?

 

[mikeyMarine]

Are any special tools required for the job?

yes, many refreshin beverages, an ample reserve of bad words and access to this web site, all the tricks of the trade at your fingertips here! some videos on how to do it to watch here will help tremendously.

 

[Bob Monkhouse]

yes, many refreshin beverages, an ample reserve of bad words and access to this web site, all the tricks of the trade at your fingertips here! some videos on how to do it to watch here will help tremendously.

I have lots of bad words ready and waiting, I have a PhD in abusive words. 🤣

 

[Bob Monkhouse]

I have lots of bad words ready and waiting, I have a PhD in abusive words. 🤣

I've been building and modifying these things for almost 50 years so I have lots of experience in swearing at scooters. 🤣

 

[Buffalo]

There are some special tools required but it is fairly easy to cobble together substitutes for them from your normal tools.

I did my first CVT pull back in 2011. I used the service manual procedures which calls for pulling the whole power train out of the bike. Have since learned that is not necessary and you can just raise the frame up enough to clear the CVT and save about a half day of labor. Since no one on this board had done it before I created a thread to document it.

In the thread CVT Belt Replace. I showed the tools I fabricated to get the job done.

 

[maccecht]

Check the primary pulley bolt is tight that can cause a rattle followed by spline failure. Simple 10 minute job.
Happened to me

Primary pulley stripped splines

So 2014 model 57k miles. On the commute home lost drive FI light comes on. Got recovered and today stripped the bike down. I thought the belt had gone but I put a new belt in at 32k miles after my engine blew up. I went the Buffalo route (cheers buffalo) and jacked the frame up. Engine is still...

www.burgmanusa.com

 

[Dannspride]

I've been building and modifying these things for almost 50 years so I have lots of experience in swearing at scooters. 🤣 View attachment 98519

Absolutely adorable those pink Lambrettas. How old are these examples? I'm betting they'll draw a crowd whenever and wherever they go. Thanks for sharing and may your repair be within your scope of talent and do ability.

 

[Bob Monkhouse]

Absolutely adorable those pink Lambrettas. How old are these examples? I'm betting they'll draw a crowd whenever and wherever they go. Thanks for sharing and may your repair be within your scope of talent and do ability.

They are both GP200's, one 1970 and the other 1971 although one has a 250cc aluminium reed valve barrel of my own design and a Wiseco H2 piston with a 38mm Mikuni carb and expansion chamber, the other has a linered aluminium barrel with a reed valve, 34mm DellOrto oval bore carb, H2 Kawasaki piston, expansion chamber etc, both are heavily modified and are 35bhp and 30bhp. The paint is a pink base with iridescent silver and pink metalflake covered in around 10 coats of 2pack lacquer. Both are capable of 95-100mph.

 

[Bob Monkhouse]

They are both GP200's, one 1970 and the other 1971 although one has a 250cc aluminium reed valve barrel of my own design and a Wiseco H2 piston with a 38mm Mikuni carb and expansion chamber, the other has a linered aluminium barrel with a reed valve, 34mm DellOrto oval bore carb, H2 Kawasaki piston, expansion chamber etc, both are heavily modified and are 35bhp and 30bhp. The paint is a pink base with iridescent silver and pink metalflake covered in around 10 coats of 2pack lacquer. Both are capable of 95-100mph.

Then there's this one, a dedicated race bike I'm building, again Kawasaki H2 piston at 73mm bore, 62mm stroke using one of my barrels, expansion chamber, DellOrto 34mm carb producing around 40bhp

 

[maccecht]

Bob where are you based my mate races vespas in the production class. You and him would get on well. Racing at Lydden last year

 

[cooperman]

Bob when does the Burgman get the pink paint job?