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Discussion Starter #1
I plan to do the 600 mile service myself which includes checking the chassis bolts and nuts.

Looking at the service manual most of it seems pretty clear except for:

1. The axle bolt and front axle pinch bolt. It doesn't mention this but shouldn't the pinch bolt be backed off first before you tighten the axle bolt? After doing the axle bolt then tighten the pinch bolt? Seems to me that if the pinch bolt is tight you wouldn't be able to tighten the axle bolt. Maybe it doesn't work that way - that's why I'm asking.




2. The handlebar holder set bolt and the steering stem lock nut. 165 ft/lbs seems like more than I can do with a hand torque wrench - the HF 1/2" torque wrench only goes up to 150 ft/lbs so I quess I can only determine if it's at least that tight. I don't know what kind of attachment you would need to check the torque setting on the spanner nut for the steering stem lock but I'm sure I don't have one. I think I'll just pass on this one and trust Suzuki did it right at the factory.

 

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I always loosen the pinch bolt before torquing the axle bolt.

I believe that is a miss print on the holder lock nut and it should read 16.5 ft lb not 165.
 

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They make a special socket to tighten the steering sten nut but to use it you have to remove the handlebar holder.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Buffalo said:
I always loosen the pinch bolt before torquing the axle bolt.

I believe that is a miss print on the holder lock nut and it should read 16.5 ft lb not 165.
Wow - I'm glad you pointed that out. I can see now that the metric settings would indicate 16.5 but I didn't pay attenion to that until you indicated the error.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Buffalo said:
They make a special socket to tighten the steering sten nut but to use it you have to remove the handlebar holder.
I suppose I could use a hammer and a drift to give it a couple of light taps to at least determine if it isn't loose.
 

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It's got to be a misprint 165 lb-ft would turn the flats of the inside of that set screw or brake the key,
if the threads were up to it that is.
 

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Ralph M said:
It's got to be a misprint 165 lb-ft would turn the flats of the inside of that set screw or brake the key,
if the threads were up to it that is.
Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha..................!!!!!!!!!!!! :lol: :thumbup:
 

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The FSM tells you to "degrees" the variator surfaces..... Maybe some cranio-translational error there too....
 

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lloyd123 said:
I plan to do the 600 mile service myself which includes checking the chassis bolts and nuts.
Oh no :shock: I bought my 400 with 500 miles on it I wonder if that stuff was ever done? Well I guess it's to late to worry about it 5 years later & it's sold. Front bolts did get retighten ever time I changed the tire. I guess the new owner will be okay. :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Desert Rat said:
Oh no :shock: I bought my 400 with 500 miles on it I wonder if that stuff was ever done? Well I guess it's to late to worry about it 5 years later & it's sold. Front bolts did get retighten ever time I changed the tire. I guess the new owner will be okay. :wink:
It's not just the 600 mile service but Suzuki has checking the botls and nuts listed it in the maintenance schedule every 3,500 miles or 12 months. I could never fully understand the time aspect except maybe for fluids. If fact the first service is for 600 miles or 2 months - most bikes probably sit on the dealers floor much longer than that.

I would suspect that checking all the chassis bolts and nuts is something that doesn't get done or needs to be done - at least after the 600 mile service - and even then nothing needs to be tightened then unless someone at the factory was having an off day.

Just out of curiosity - has anyone ever found any bolts that were loose after using your bike for awhile and routinely needed to be tightened?
 

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Not here. In fact my complaint when I picked up my 2008, was that the bolts and nuts were over tightened.

I generally just check bolts and nuts that I see when I open a panel into a new area. Other than that, I don't worry about them. Maybe I'm just too trusting.

Chris
 

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Just finished my 600 mile initial oil change. Thanks to Mitchbergma's awesome video tutorial plus pics I found in a post in the How To section, it went pretty smoothly. I did, however, have a similar experience to Chris' (Daboo) in that the drain plug was seriously over-torqued. With the CVT cover sticking out as it does, I could not get leverage to use the breaker bar, so finally managed to yank it hard enough with the ratchet to get it free. In examining the edges of the bolt, it looks like the socket bit into the sides a bit, so I might need to order a replacement for the next oil change. Anyway, thanks for all the excellent tips you guys provide! :cheers:
 
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