Completed my first service valve adjustment today.
I recommend silicone lube spray to prep the removed hoses and exposed
hose fittings so they'll slip back on easily.
The two little hoses at the PAIR solenoid are tough to remove!
The two intake valves were tight but the exhaust valves were at spec so
I didn't adjust them.
Straddling the rear wheel to turn the flywheel (with a ratchet extension) while
looking at the exposed TDC mark to come into view on the other side of the bike
was grueling.
The manual said to rotate the vanes of the flywheel but I found that a human hand
cannot. My 8in ratchet extension got placed under the center post
of the flywheel then small movements against a vane moved the flywheel
a little at a time. A good flashlight then gets shined into the TDC mark
hole.
An old office chair with wheels is indispensable for sitting at various places
around the bike.
In lieu of a $60 creeper for removal of plastic fasteners, I spread out
newspaper on the floor.
I spent a few hours buying tools like hex bits and the extension for the ratchet.
Cut my hand when the valve cover hex bolt suddenly loosened from
the ratchet then
my hand swung down into the metal guide for the seat on the right front side.
This guide can be removed by means of its two bolts. Now I know.
The two hinge bolts at the seat are easily removed with a closed end metric box
ratchet. There's not much room in there to use a conventional
ratchet/socket.
I did not disconnect the fuel line like the manual says to do and instead
bungie-netted the FI onto the frame to work on the valves below.
The PCV hose is difficult to replace back onto the air box so I found that by
removing the hose from the PCV fitting, securing the hose to the box
then fishing the hose onto the metal fitting again, I've bypassed the steps
on having to remove the lower trunk.
I used a swatch of plastic tape, placed onto the head of a socket in order
to keep a bolt secured into the socket without magnetizing.
It is No Fun to guess where a bolt fell if it falls into the machine.
I've heard a couple stories here about how 'easy' the Burgman is to
work on but now I know; ask for certification to space walk plus sattelite
retrieve work after working on a Burgman engine.
Most any screw/bolt/fastener/connector left loose or missing can reduce a Burgy to a heap.
There are at least 50 separate steps in order to gain access to a 400's
valves, all requiring a place for the removed item and correct reassembly.
I don't recommend valve servicing to anyone who has to leave the bike
disassembled for long. If you must leave for a day or two, use plastic food
wrap to cover the intake and other holes to keep dust out until you get back.
Rags have lint that you don't want in there.
Part of the work is to figure out what the manual is talking about.
I photocopied 7-9 to keep to a minimum of page flipping in getting the
plastics off.
The picture of TDC on page 2-7 is not as detailed of a picture as you can
get on 3-12.
I used the same valve cover gasket and experienced no leaks on a test
start in the garage (crossed fingers).
Next time I'm inside the Burgman I'll replace the gasket and use sealer to keep the gasket
in place while the cover gets mated back on.
I kept a pin pulled fire extinguisher at my side just in case fuel went the wrong way.
It didn't.
I recommend silicone lube spray to prep the removed hoses and exposed
hose fittings so they'll slip back on easily.
The two little hoses at the PAIR solenoid are tough to remove!
The two intake valves were tight but the exhaust valves were at spec so
I didn't adjust them.
Straddling the rear wheel to turn the flywheel (with a ratchet extension) while
looking at the exposed TDC mark to come into view on the other side of the bike
was grueling.
The manual said to rotate the vanes of the flywheel but I found that a human hand
cannot. My 8in ratchet extension got placed under the center post
of the flywheel then small movements against a vane moved the flywheel
a little at a time. A good flashlight then gets shined into the TDC mark
hole.
An old office chair with wheels is indispensable for sitting at various places
around the bike.
In lieu of a $60 creeper for removal of plastic fasteners, I spread out
newspaper on the floor.
I spent a few hours buying tools like hex bits and the extension for the ratchet.
Cut my hand when the valve cover hex bolt suddenly loosened from
the ratchet then
my hand swung down into the metal guide for the seat on the right front side.
This guide can be removed by means of its two bolts. Now I know.
The two hinge bolts at the seat are easily removed with a closed end metric box
ratchet. There's not much room in there to use a conventional
ratchet/socket.
I did not disconnect the fuel line like the manual says to do and instead
bungie-netted the FI onto the frame to work on the valves below.
The PCV hose is difficult to replace back onto the air box so I found that by
removing the hose from the PCV fitting, securing the hose to the box
then fishing the hose onto the metal fitting again, I've bypassed the steps
on having to remove the lower trunk.
I used a swatch of plastic tape, placed onto the head of a socket in order
to keep a bolt secured into the socket without magnetizing.
It is No Fun to guess where a bolt fell if it falls into the machine.
I've heard a couple stories here about how 'easy' the Burgman is to
work on but now I know; ask for certification to space walk plus sattelite
retrieve work after working on a Burgman engine.
Most any screw/bolt/fastener/connector left loose or missing can reduce a Burgy to a heap.
There are at least 50 separate steps in order to gain access to a 400's
valves, all requiring a place for the removed item and correct reassembly.
I don't recommend valve servicing to anyone who has to leave the bike
disassembled for long. If you must leave for a day or two, use plastic food
wrap to cover the intake and other holes to keep dust out until you get back.
Rags have lint that you don't want in there.
Part of the work is to figure out what the manual is talking about.
I photocopied 7-9 to keep to a minimum of page flipping in getting the
plastics off.
The picture of TDC on page 2-7 is not as detailed of a picture as you can
get on 3-12.
I used the same valve cover gasket and experienced no leaks on a test
start in the garage (crossed fingers).
Next time I'm inside the Burgman I'll replace the gasket and use sealer to keep the gasket
in place while the cover gets mated back on.
I kept a pin pulled fire extinguisher at my side just in case fuel went the wrong way.
It didn't.