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Discussion Starter #1
Completed my first service valve adjustment today.

I recommend silicone lube spray to prep the removed hoses and exposed
hose fittings so they'll slip back on easily.

The two little hoses at the PAIR solenoid are tough to remove!

The two intake valves were tight but the exhaust valves were at spec so
I didn't adjust them.

Straddling the rear wheel to turn the flywheel (with a ratchet extension) while
looking at the exposed TDC mark to come into view on the other side of the bike
was grueling.
The manual said to rotate the vanes of the flywheel but I found that a human hand
cannot. My 8in ratchet extension got placed under the center post
of the flywheel then small movements against a vane moved the flywheel
a little at a time. A good flashlight then gets shined into the TDC mark
hole.
An old office chair with wheels is indispensable for sitting at various places
around the bike.
In lieu of a $60 creeper for removal of plastic fasteners, I spread out
newspaper on the floor.

I spent a few hours buying tools like hex bits and the extension for the ratchet.
Cut my hand when the valve cover hex bolt suddenly loosened from
the ratchet then
my hand swung down into the metal guide for the seat on the right front side.
This guide can be removed by means of its two bolts. Now I know.

The two hinge bolts at the seat are easily removed with a closed end metric box
ratchet. There's not much room in there to use a conventional
ratchet/socket.

I did not disconnect the fuel line like the manual says to do and instead
bungie-netted the FI onto the frame to work on the valves below.

The PCV hose is difficult to replace back onto the air box so I found that by
removing the hose from the PCV fitting, securing the hose to the box
then fishing the hose onto the metal fitting again, I've bypassed the steps
on having to remove the lower trunk.

I used a swatch of plastic tape, placed onto the head of a socket in order
to keep a bolt secured into the socket without magnetizing.
It is No Fun to guess where a bolt fell if it falls into the machine.

I've heard a couple stories here about how 'easy' the Burgman is to
work on but now I know; ask for certification to space walk plus sattelite
retrieve work after working on a Burgman engine.
Most any screw/bolt/fastener/connector left loose or missing can reduce a Burgy to a heap.

There are at least 50 separate steps in order to gain access to a 400's
valves, all requiring a place for the removed item and correct reassembly.
I don't recommend valve servicing to anyone who has to leave the bike
disassembled for long. If you must leave for a day or two, use plastic food
wrap to cover the intake and other holes to keep dust out until you get back.
Rags have lint that you don't want in there.

Part of the work is to figure out what the manual is talking about.
I photocopied 7-9 to keep to a minimum of page flipping in getting the
plastics off.
The picture of TDC on page 2-7 is not as detailed of a picture as you can
get on 3-12.

I used the same valve cover gasket and experienced no leaks on a test
start in the garage (crossed fingers).
Next time I'm inside the Burgman I'll replace the gasket and use sealer to keep the gasket
in place while the cover gets mated back on.

I kept a pin pulled fire extinguisher at my side just in case fuel went the wrong way.
It didn't.
 

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Good job...

I had similar experiences when I did mine...but I didn't have the manual but tips from this site inspired me on. I found TDC by looking at the camshaft. You can tell by the positioning of the camshaft lobes wheather the valves will be open or closed. Wiggling the valve tops will verify this. I had lots of trouble with the crankcase breather and had to lift the storage box (this took about 1 hour in itself). I hate to think paying $70 /hr to a dealer for simply removing and replacing body parts. Have you change your transmission oil? The exhaust valves were OK but the intakes were tight as you found with yours.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Timothy,

I am sorry for perhaps jumping the gun on this but as things have turned
out, all is not well.

When I went out for a 7 mile ride today (had to pick up new prescription glasses) and this
is the First ride where it has been allowed to fully warm up after the adjustment, it appears perhaps
that by me choosing the .005 intake clearance that the tappets started
chattering quite much.
The .005 inch is the maximum clearance and I believed this was best because
the tappets may tighten themselves again.
But I am going to open it up again and take the intake tappets down to the
minimum of .003 inches to get the noise level down at least.
Right now, it sounds like I've put 8,000 miles on it and the tappets are loose. But when I rode it right after the adjustment, it had
plenty of power on demand, unlike I had experienced before the adjustment.

I regret that I don't have an instant success story and that I'll be going in there again to set things right.
At least I didn't make a mistake of tightening the tappets down too far
and after all, I Did follow the book.
I had Assumed that since the book gave a maximum of .005 that all would
be well.

When I did the first adjust of the intakes, I noticed that it didn't require a
whole lot of torque to loosen the tappet nut, so when I tightened them down after the adjust
I gave the nut a good tightening but not too much. The book doesn't
state the torque requirement of the tappet nuts.

It's interesting to hear you say that you only lined up the engraved line
with the mating face (with intakes closed?).
How did you turn the engine to get it lined up? I had to more or less, crowbar the impeller vanes
around to get it lined up.
The book says to do this more or less.
...And you did not open the TDC plug to line the TDC mark up to the arrow? Cool.

That "breather hose" you're talking about; you mean the one that goes under the trunk to a metal fitting then to the side of the box?
I'm thinking about buying some hose in order to make a slightly longer
Positive Crankcase Ventilation connection from box to fitting.
This way It won't seem like brain surgery to get it back on.
I have found that by leaving the two airbox screws off during re-installation
that the whole thing slides much easier back on.
If only Suzuki was thinking of us when they designed this bike, we
would have an offset throttle body and airbox with the valve cover
exposed right in front of us when the plastic body is opened, but no.

When you mentioned wiggling the valve tops, do you mean that if the
rocker arm is loose but the marks are aligned that it is Not TDC'd yet?
The intake rocker arm had alot of play in it when I made the adjustment
but all the marks were lined up so I just did the adjustment anyway.

No, I haven't changed the Hypoid final gear oil yet but want to
as soon as the tappets are done. Right now, the engine has a properly gapped
spark plug and a new air cleaner element.
I'll have that extra air cleaner element to do at home and have ready for
the next tune-up.
Arizona's dusty air dirty's up air cleaners like crazy.
 

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Hey Ajwood,

Funny that your adjustments of the intakes to 0.005" would make it noisy??? I adjusted mine to around 0.005 to 0.006" and I don't notice any real tappet noise.

First, you can turn the engine over (with the spark plug removed) very easily with a 19 or 21 mm socket. Do you know where the drive belt air filter is? Well under there this cover there is a nut for this very purpose. It is a direct connection to the crankshaft and is the easiest way to turn the engine over. The trick is to get the inner most nut off to remove this cover. Remove the under belly and with a bit of wiggling you can get to the cover nut.

Once in there, I just placed a pencil into the spark plug hole and turn the engine over and find TDC by feeling the position of the piston as you turn the engine over very slowly back and forth. DON'T USE ANYTHING ELSE OTHER THAN A PENCIL or PIECE OF WOOD. I used a chop stick.

With the valve cover off I then looked directly at the camshaft lobes. The valves are fully closed (all four) when the piston is at the top, the camshaft is situated so it's lobes are not pressing on the valve mechanism. Takes a bit mechanical imagination. NOW GRAB THE TOP OF THE VALVE WITH YOUR FINGERS AND APPLIED A SMALL AMOUNT OF FORCE SIDE TO SIDE. If they are tight then you will not feel any movement. Best to feel movement if not then either the engine is not at TDC in the exhaust stroke of it's cycle or it is one of the other 3 of 4 positions of it's cycle. The markings that you are describing are probably the best way to place the engine at TDC with the valves closed.

Now check the markings that the manual states indicate TDC for intake or exhaust. I hope this isn't too confusing. I didn't have the shop manual when I did this but this worked for me. My engine is quiet. Most of the noise I hear is from the v-belt.

Best to have them too loose as you say but also try to be consistent with your measurements. Try to get both intakes at 0.005" and both exhaust at 0.008" or whatever they are specified because then there is less rocking in the mechanism.

I, like you, didn't want to have the valves at the lower range so I went on the loose side so 0.005 to 0.006". Hope this helps but take you time when you are in there.

As for the crankcase breather hose, great idea. Let me know how this goes. As for the tranny oil. The manual say 12K I believe so take your time.

Timothy
 

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Hey Ajwood,

Remember to remove the spark plug when you are trying to find TDC. This could explain why it took so much force to turn the engine over the way you did it. The compression ratio of this engine is 10.1:1 eh? Hard to compress this with the spark plug in place. ITmothy
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Timothy,
Thanks for the pointers.

Let me just get a few things straight. Even though I have the manual and it
states to look at the TDC mark at the access hole And I should confirm that the two
marks are aligned at the cam chain sprocket outside, I might not be at the TDC
compression stroke?... And I should still use a pencil or chopstick to confirm
piston TDC?
I thought these suggestions were for owners that didn't have the book
And if an owner does have the book that they should simply follow the marks, right?
Yes I did remove the spark plug per the book.

Early this morning I opened the bike up again, moved the
crankshaft TDC mark to the arrow, confirmed alignment at cam chain
then measured the tappet gap again.
It measured so tight that not one of the feelers would go through.
Turns out that the tappets needed to be adjusted three turns out before
the .003 feeler would gap both intake valves.
I thought that this was absurd because I turned both screws out looser
the previous day to .005. I checked the rocker arm for looseness and it
was solid unlike the previous day.
What I think I need to do is open the valve cover up Again and set the
marks Again and try to pull the rocker arm UP so that it won't appear to
the feelers as being super tight any longer. I may have such a tight
new engine that the intake rocker arm needs pulling up by hand or soft mallet when I do
tappet gapping when the block is cold.

It erks me that other riders have done theirs without a glitch and
I can't get the fat lady to sing.

One peculiar thing I discovered today was that the brand new feeler gauge set
I bought had feelers that were stuck together so that a smaller setting would
sometimes make a wider gap and it took me a while to figure out why
this was happening.

As soon as the Burgman's valves are set I'm moving on for installation of the
BurgyBrake prototype into my 400 to test it.
Flow charting the PIC chip programming has helped a lot.
The BurgyBrake will allow deployment of the sidestand with engine on if the brake is
on full plus the module will have an alarm that sounds if the sidestand is moved up
when the bike is turned off.
Hitting the Parking brake key position 3 times turns alarm on and moving the
key to On or Park again turns it off.
 

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Hey ajwood,

Yeah, the markings are there to let you know you are at TDC. Bummer isn't it when you have to go back and redo all your work. When I'm in there, I always look closely at the positioning of the camshaft lobes. In fact sometimes I don't bother with the markings and check to make sure the valves mechanism is slightly loose and then proceed with the adjustments.

They should always get tighter as mileage goes up. Think about it. As the valves seat and going through billions and billions of opening and closings under the stress of heat and mechanical stress (springs exerting force the valves onto their seats) then the seats wear. Hence tighter valve clearances. The exhaust valves should suffer more because of their higher operating temperatures but with the on set of better materials, that we probably take for granted, they will last a very long time.

I wonder about the cylinder bores. Their Gixxer line of models have a special type of silcon/metal surface that is electroplated just like the nikelsil liners of the BMW's. Tough, tough surface. I could see the hash cross marks on my BMW's cylinder still after 50,000 kms.

What's this burger brake thingy??
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The BurgyBrake is one of several enhancements I am designing to be
installed in both the 400 and 650. A BurgyModule will get wired
into the existing Burgman wiring and it will not be visible, using existing
switches to enable the BurgyModule function(s).
Without hitting combinations of switches to enable certain BurgyModule
functions, your Burgman operates as a stock Burgman.

BurgyBrake: As described above, for the 400 and 650.

BurgyPower: For the 650 only. The rider pushes the Power Mode button twice, then
the BurgyPower will monitor the throttle position and its movement rate so that
the Power Mode will engage/disengage automatically depending on RPM's, throttle
and speed of the bike. The rider will have control over the BurgyPower module
by setting custom or default settings to the riders liking via small controls
on the module.

BurgyFuel: For the 650 only. Monitors the non-linear fuel level stock sender
and re-translates these values into gallons remaining. Of the five bars on
the AN650's display, the new readout values are as follows:
5 bars = 4 or more gallons.
5th bar blinking = under 4 gallons remaining.
4 bars = over 3 and under 3 1/2 gallons remaining.
4th bar blinking = under 3 gallons remaining.
3 bars = over 2 and under 2 1/2 gallons remaining.
2 bars = under 2 gallons remaining.
1 bar with gas pump graphic blinking = over 1 and under 1 1/2 gallons remaining.
No bars showing with gas pump graphic blinking = Less than 1 gallon remaining.

A stock 650's fuel readout occasionally drops down a bar but then goes back up
and down again which confuses me. The BurgyFuel will not jump up and
down between bars as the fuel is used.

The BurgyModule project is entering its 5th week of delays and it now looks like
mid to end of summer before I am done with the first one's tests on my 400 (BurgyBrake)
to then feel confident about offering a finished product to the public.
The prototype that will sit in my glove box has over-ride switches and
a zif socket for the flash version chip.
The finished product will be a small sealed box with an OTP version of the
controller chip.
BurgyFuel will probably be the next BurgyModule product after BurgyBrake then BurgyPower.
A cruise control has been discussed here but I'll need to test a servo and
redundant disengagement before I offer something like that up for sale.
No prices for the BurgyModule line is available yet.

In about 5- 10 weeks, I'll post an offer here on BurgmanUSA for someone
here in Arizona to get a free BurgyBrake install for their 650.
Since I no longer own a 650, I'll do the give-away offer to measure the dimensions
of a 650 parking brake (for custom limit switch) since it's slightly different than my 400.
 

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How important is the first valve adjustment anyway?

I am coming up to 1000 miles on my 400K3 and have not yet adjusted the valves. I was planning on waiting until after I take an upcoming 500 mile trip. I expect that by that time the bike will have about 1800 miles, give or take. Am I pushing it? Should I consider doing the valves before I head out on the trip? :?:
 

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Nybubba,

I think you are pushing it. I found when I checked my valves they were tight (600 MILE check). The exhaust valves were fine (at 0.007 - 0.008") but the intakes were at 0.002 - 0.003". Another 1200 miles beyonded what Suzuki recommends ...uhm I'm not sure I would be comfortable my whole trip if thats what you are planning. The big question is...how much are you willing to let it go? The engine could be OK and then maybe you could burn a valve. This is the consequence of really tight valves.

The maintenance is so much trouble with this model but this is the only complaint I have with the 400.
 

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Thanks

Thanks Timothy, I am going to to follow your advice and do the valve adjustment before the trip. I have ordered the Suzuki valve tool and a new gasket and (1) washer. All I need now is to pick-up the Suzuki gasket sealer and valve gauges. A few quick questions:
1) Will the short (3in) straight valve gauges work well or would I be better off with the longer angled gauges?
2) From your previous posts it sounds like you had success with the valves set at .008in exhaust and .005-.006in intake, is that correct?
3) Also, based on my previous experience working on autos, gasket sealer is placed on all the metal surfaces that mate to the new gasket; is this true for the Burgman valve cover aswell?
4) Any other tips you can offer would be GREATLY appreciated. I'm a little anxious about doing this service. I hide it well though, don't I. :D
 

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Howard, you don't use gasket sealer on the valve cover, and any old set of flat feeler guages work fine. Hate to tell you, but you don't need a "valve tool" either. Just loosen the nut, adjust with your fingers, and retighten the nut. At most you may need to hold the thing with a pair of plyers while you tighten the nut. I reused the gasket on the valve cover...it came off with the cover and looked good. It looks like some sort of rubber or silicone rubber similar to the ones on my airplane motor which I have had off and on 8-10 times in last two years with no leakage.

However, considering all the work getting the plastic off, if you have a new one I'd put it on. Keep the old one for future possible use.

Since you have to pull the aircleaner box you might want to consider extending the little short drain hose...the one with the cap on it...so that it can be reached from underneat without removing any plastic. You can get plastic hose at your Home Depot or similar.....about a foot will do it.
If theres no gunk in it now, you may not want to bother. One of our guys with a 400 had a hose full of oil...maybe sucked in from the crankcase; so we all just extended the hose to make it easy. Neither of us have had any further oil in the hoses which is a good sign. I think he had put too much oil in and that caused the problem.

Clean your air filter while you're at it. I use anything handy to wash the filter...Simple Green, kerosene (my preference..as it washed old oil and dirt out and leaves slight oily residue), anything that will cut oil. Just make sure its dried if you use water, or squeze dry with towels if you use kerosene and reoil with motor oil or filter oil if you have it and then work it thru the foam with your hands. Some guys use rubber gloves.

Clean the foam filter down at the belt drive...its behind the black cover. Its a dry filter so probably all it needs is a good dusting, or vacuum.
 

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Hey NY Bubba,

I think I agree with Ted Clement. You don't have to change the valve cover gasket. I have complete two valve checks (adjustments only needed at the first check so thats why I warned you about it). The valve cover gasket is really meant to be re-used and as with my other bikes I have very rarely had to replace it after checking the valves (BMW, Moto Guzzi, Suzuki 450, SRX etc.)

Just be careful that it seats correctly and you don't accidently pinch it. If you do then you may have to change it. I think Suzuki recommends changing it because they have to cover all bases...some people will mess it up. After you've done the valves just run your fingers around the cover checking each side ... the gasket will seat if it is placed correctly in it's groved spot. Take your time and you'll do it right although its always OK to have a spare.

As for the feelers gauges, I used ones about 4" long and I really don't think it matters. Remember to take your time. It takes so much fiddling to get in there that you should spend the extra bit to make sure it is done right. I used 0.007-0.008" exhaust and 0.005-0.006" for intakes. I hope you are mechanically inclined. Just follow the instructions for setting the enigne at TDC and you'll be fine. I tend to do it by looking at the camshaft lobes.

Let me know what you find...were they tight? Were the exhaust tight or the intakes?? I am curious but you may have done them already since I haven't check this site in a couple of days. Good luck with it.
 

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You guys are great.

Tim & Ted, Thanks for all the input. Your information has helped to put me at ease as I set out to do this job. I am mechanically inclined, but since I have never done an adjustyment before I am being extra causious. I will post how things turn out.

One last question; The manual says to use a gasket sealer on one spot. What kind of sealer do you guys use?
 

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Howard, I may be wrong but I think that "Bond" was mentioned in the section were the entire engine was torn down and being put back togather. I don't recall seeing any mention of putting the "Suzuki Bond" on that one little place in the section that details valve adjustments. However, if it does, I would put a very, very thin coat of Hylomar HPF (sp?) made by Permatex..its a blue sealer that does not dry so hard that it is diff to get off. I've used it on the gaskets of my airplane when I thought I had a seepage at some spot. Get it at any auto supply. Don't put enough on that it can squeeze out and get inside the engine as it might clog up some oil ports or somesuch. If I ever use it, I'd let it set up for at least several hours, or overnight, before running the engine. I've done, or helped, with two adjustments and didn't use any of the gasket sealer, but will certainly pay close attention to see what thats all about on my next adjustment. Might be worth asking a Suzuki mechanic what they use, if any. They probably won't know, but the parts dept can prob tell you what kind of "bond" it is.

After you've adjusted the valves, roll the engine around a time or two and recheck the adjustment to make sure they are correct.
 

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Hey NYBubba,

I've done my valves twice and ignored the subject of Suzuki bond. Just be real careful not to pinch the gasket. I think the bond is used in one spot and at that most likely to assist in keeping the gasket in place at that one spot. No leaks or issues with me or any of my other bikes doing the same task over and over again.

The valve cover gasket has lots of room to compress and seal. I believe its about 1/4" thick or so. There are 3 allen key type bolts that hold down the cover so just tighten them with a gentle but even torque on each bolt. The gasket will seal and will continue to seal even after having the valves redone a number of times. Maybe even the lifetime of the scooter. Remember to take your time. There are lots of small but tedious and aggrevating steps to get to the valves. You should see the arrangement of the Majesty 400... from what I saw it is alot easier to get at the valves.

One small encouragement....you'll get better at it for the next service. I went from 6 hours to about 2 hours.
 

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Well I did it.

Did the valve adjustment last weekend. What a pain getting all that plastic off and then back on again. I thought the valve adjustment went well though. Got in there no problem; the intake (tope valves, right?) where at .002" and the exhaust (bottom, I hope!) were O.K. at .007".

I adjusted the intakes to .005-.006". I took my time to ensure that I had the engine at TDC, adjusted the valves and then turn the shaft and verified the adjustment twice.

I started her up and she sounded O.K., but had a little bit of a tick. Since the adjustment I have put on about 50 miles and the tick is still present, so I guess its back in I go. :cry: What causes the tick? Is it that I adjusted the intakes too wide open? Should I go down to a tight .005 or even .004"? Could I have done any damage to the valves by what I did?

She still has great acceleration, just an annoying tick. :(

HELP!
 

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OK then,

Better to hear a tick that hear nothing... nothing could mean the valves are too tight and that can cause more harm than good. Ticking is such a subjective thing. If it really bothers you by all means put your mind to rest my going back in there and check it again. From what you describe, I think you must be holding your head down to the motor and listening or is this a very load ticking as you are riding. Really really subjective....
 

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Oh I forgot,

No you did not do any damage by adjusting the valve on the loose side, if this is what you did. I adjusted mine purposely loose (0.006 " intakes) and after 6,000 kms (4,000 miles) they did not change. Like I say, better to hear a tick than not.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Guys,

Don't forget that I had to pull the rocker arm away from the lobe by hand
before the intake settings would stay and not click.
Must be the new engine tightness.

If this is the same kind of clicking that I had before I found out about the rocker arm, it gets louder as
the bike warms up and it sounds like an old Chrysler slant-six that's not very healthy.

Signs that the adjustment is not going well is that it seems like the
tappet adjust screws require more than 270 degrees of turning or
that the first clockwise movement pushes against the lobe while the rocker arm
rises and lashes upward into play that it shouldn't have.
The only play that should exist is between the cam lobe and tappet facing.

The good news is that by the time you get the clearances right, you'll
get the tear-down time to less than an hour.
Be sure that you're doing the tappets with a cold engine block.

You can do test starts with many of the covers and seat still off.
Don't forget the PCV crankcase vent hose or the vacuum will be off and it can
run ruff.
 
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