[spooker]

I tried to start my 2009 AN400 yesterday. I turned the key, everything lit up right for about half a second, and the needles started going up, then suddenly everything stopped. No dash lights or headlights. Of course the engine won't turn over.

I think it's an electrical problem. I checked all the fuses, they're all fine. I'm charging the battery right now but I don't expect that will help because it's a recent battery and I didn't even get to the point of cranking the engine.

Any other ideas for things to check or rule out, before I take it to the shop? Thanks in advance.

 

[Buffalo]

One thing I can think of that causes symptoms like your describing is a failed ignition switch. Try the key in the park light position (pushed in turned all the way to the left) to see if the tail lights come on. Many times when the switch burns out in the on position it still works in the park light position.

 

[spooker]

I'll give that a try once I get the battery back in. One thing I should add though, is that after this happened, I checked to see if the under-seat light was working, and it wasn't. That's not dependent on the ignition switch, right? So I think not likely to be the problem.

 

[Leo38]

There is a recall for rectifier/regulator failure for all 2008 & 2009 400's

http://www.suzukicycles.com/~/media/Recalls/CustLetterMC.ashx

Check your VIN with Suzuki to see if this work has been done.
If this link opens on the models listing page, scroll down on the list to '2008-2009 Miscellaneous Models' and download the PDF.

 

[Elliott Larron]

If All of the Above Fails.

To Determine if it's the rectifier/regulator, Remove the Wind Screen,Dash Cover, Unplug the Ignition Coupler-Connector, There are Six Prongs Tap the Prong at the TOP LEFT and the Prong Middle Bottom, If the Dash Lights up, then it's not rectifier/regulator,.

If it turns out to be the Ignition Switch, Tap the 2 wires to a Separate Switch,

This will By-Pass the Problem. Temporary.

Elliott,

 

[spooker]

Thanks for the advice guys. This one had a happy ending. I charged the battery, put it back in, and it started right up. Mysterious. I hope it doesn't happen again. It also leaves me wondering as to the cause. The only other things I did was check all the fuses and remove my hardwired GPS charger.

I had the alternator recall work done back in 2011. I guess I'll just have to hope that this problem doesn't recur when I'm 150 miles away from home on a rally

 

[Elliott Larron]

Yeah!! But anyway Check your Ignition, Anyway this happend to me Twice!! where it Mysteriously went out and came back on!! This time mines went out forever, So write down The prong Positions just in case this happens again... Avoid a Tow!

Elliott,

 

[spooker]

Hey Elliott, I didn't entirely follow your advice. Can you give a little bit more detail, like where is the ignition coupler-connector and what does it look like? And by tap you mean connect them with a wire, right? Will the procedure you described above give any information now that the bike seems to be working again? Thanks.

 

[Elliott Larron]

Here ya Go!!

http://burgmanusa.com/forums/52-burgman-400-2007-model/77705-ignition-switch-finally-quit.html

I had not had a chance to fix mines yet? But as soon as payday gets here i'm going in, for the FIX!!

There is a SECURITY ISSUE using the Tap, The starter will Come on But Won't Turn Over with out the Key in the Ignition...

So putting the Switch in the Glove Box and then Lock it seems like a Safe Ideal!!

Soon everybody will be up here with the same Problem if the bike is 6-7 Years Old!! it's that time.

 

[Roger32849]

SPOOKER

There is also another issue not discussed yet. The tapping of the wires might get your power back if the ignition fails, but you will get an "IGNITION" fault if you bypass the 100 ohm resistor located inside the OEM switch. Putting an aftermarket switch in the glove box will only work if you use something like a SCOTCHLOCK tap-on. You have to leave the OEM switch connected to the plug and (provided the security side of the switch works) you have to use both the OEM switch and the one in the glove box.

The OEM switch has 3 separate circuits. Here they are. 1. Provides power to the ignition system for running. 2. Provides power to the lights. 3. Provides a security circuit to prevent ignition bypassing.

If your switch currently works and your battery goes dead again, it might be your rectifier is not charging your battery. With the engine running, you should have about 13.5 to 14.5 Volts when measured across your battery. Anything less means your charging system is faulty... Usually the rectifier....

Hope this helps