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Discussion Starter #1
Ron Ayers has a web page that has several bearing cross references.

Front wheel bearings:
I found a different bearing for the 400 K8 front bearings cross reference 6202 - 2RS meaning double rubber seals. Federal Mogul Bearings 202-FF. I paid $21.00 per bearing. The invoice says 202FF BCA bearings. The bearing is 15x35x11 (Inside diameter, outside diameter, width). Suzuki part # 08123-62027. The Suzuki bearing also needs a dust cover 09284-22004.

The Federal Mogul bearing is double sealed meaning a seal on both sides of the bearing and should not need the dust cover. I think I am going to also order dust covers just to have the exact same width of parts replacement for a more perfect fit.

Please if you have any information on any of the bearings in the K7+ add to this thread so we all can benefit from everyone's knowledge. It is going totake some time to be able to cross reference all the K7+ bearings.

Bob Weis
 

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Discussion Starter #2
2008AN400
Rear Bearing Swing Arm
Suzuki part # 09262-25072 bearing size on Ron Ayers site 25x52x15 (ID,OD,W) Google search yields 6205-2RS for 2 sided sealed bearing.
Bearing dust covers
Suzuki Inner Dust Cover 09283-32046
Suzuki Outer Dust Cover 09285-32004

Bob Weis
 

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Good research on both counts :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
 

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That is pretty pricy for a common bearing size 6202 2RS. Any bearing supply house should be able to beat those prices by a country mile. For that matter just go to TSC (Tractor Supply) and pick them up. Both sizes.
 

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My 2008 Burgman 400 has 12K miles on it and just went in the shop. it was making a rattling noise and, after $800 of labor tearing apart the engine, they found the failed part: a crank end bearing (part # 09262-35038). It split, apparently, and they have no idea why. Too bad this happened only few months after my warranty expired!

Also, that part is about $30 ... but according to my dealer, replacing that $30 part requires replacing about $500 in other parts: many many gaskets & O-rings, a bearing (22X50X) a piston ($80) and some seals. REALLY!?!?!?!
 

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Your engine story just scared me to death. More details what kind of oil, maintenance, usage, climate, previous issues, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I just finished replacing the front wheel bearings. Lessons learned:

Simple to get the front wheel off.

The seals come out easily, but you destroy them so IF you replace them have them on hand.

To get the bearings out you DO NOT NEED a bearing puller (assuming you are going to replace them anyway. How you do it is:
You will need a LONG (8" +) tapered square ended (meaning flat ended) punch. The center spacer appears to only want to offset from the inside race of the bearing about 1/16", but just take the punch and tap the center section spacer perpendicular and it will offset about 1/4", pleanty of offset to then put the punch down the center section hole and punch the bearing out by hitting the bearing on alternating sides from inside the spacer.

Clean the place the new bearing is going, lay the new bearing in position and use a socket that is a tiny bit smaller than the OD of the outer race of the new bearing to tap the new bearing into place.

Put the spacer inside the wheel (DO NOT FORGET THIS STEP)

Tap the other side bearing into place

IF you use double sided sealed bearings (2RS (rubber sealed)) you do not need to replace the seals (my opinion).

Re-install the wheel (be sure to make sure the rotation of the front tire is in the correct direction (ie asphalt goes UNDER the tire (the tire rotation arrow when on the bottom should point to the rear of the scooter))

TORQUE the spindle to specifications, remount the disk brakes (both sides) TORQUE the disc brake mounting bolts, TORQUE the Axle spindle lock bolt.

I also did a brake fluid bleeding (both sides) to replace the brake fluid while I was messing around the front wheel. You should replace the brake fluid every 2 years anyway so now is a good time to do it. Remember brake fluid spills will EAT PAINT INSTANTLY, be careful. I found my brake reservour inner rubber baffle had distended in the fluid cavity. Not sure why, but the brake pads were fine, just the rubber seal in the reservour had distended. Maybe bad install at the Suzuki?

I will work on cross referencing other bearings. MUCH easier to replace when the bearing is still functional than after a failure as noted in the post above. I would rather take a day digging into the engine lerning how to maintain it than to replace something that failed and spend $1000. Example: Replace the CVT belt and/or variator or clutch and replace all the CVT bearings at the same time.

Anyone know why (other than cost) Suzuki did not use bearings sealed on BOTH sides? My bearings had very little grease in one of them and no grease in the other one. I could not understand why a wheel bearing was failing at 12k miles. NO grease, that's why. Before I removed them I used my finger to see if I could wobble the inner race. One side (dry side) wobbled a lot, the other side (greased side) some (probably due to the first side not running true and perpendicular to the bearing that did have grease in it).

Bob Weis

Oh, I checked with my local machine shop to see what the cost of the machine shop replacing the bearings if I took them the wheel and the new bearings was. It was $25. So if you would rather not do the bearing replacement and have a machine shop do it the cost is reasonable (you take them the new bearings & seals if you are going to do seals also).
 
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