[philtag6000]

Hi there, newbie question

Is the 04 Burgman 400 belt drive or shaft drive?
If it is belt drive, why does it need gear oil?
And what is CVT belt?

thanks for your help
Phil

 

[billmeek]

Phil,

The 400 is a belt drive. The CVT is the transmission. For a good description of how a CVT works see :

http://www.silverwing.co.uk/CVT.htm

 

[Brian]

The 400 is a belt drive. The CVT is the transmission. For a good description of how a CVT works see: http://www.silverwing.co.uk/CVT.htm

That's a pretty good basic overview, but there's a modern twist that it doesn't mention: on the AN650K the CVT pulleys aren't varied by centripetal force, but by a computer. Thus the SECVT, or Suzuki Electronically-controlled Continuously Variable Transmission.

I don't know what other scooters have this type of system, but it's way cool. 8)

 

[pauljo]

the SECVT, or Suzuki Electronically-controlled Continuously Variable Transmission.

I don't know what other scooters have this type of system, but it's way cool.

None - yet. This is one of the features that sets the AN650 apart from the competition.

 

[Randy in norCal]

I just read a 400 tech sheet that says it's belt & shaft drive. :?
Also, how do you adjust the valves, screw/nut or shim under bucket?

 

[Brian]

I just read a 400 tech sheet that says it's belt & shaft drive. :?

Well, let's see: there is a belt in the CVT, and the pullies are on shafts, so I guess you could call it "belt & shaft drive"...

Naw, your tech sheets are wrong. Where are they from?

 

[philtag6000]

I just read a 400 tech sheet that says it's belt & shaft drive. :?
Also, how do you adjust the valves, screw/nut or shim under bucket?

The belt is connected to the back pulley where it is connected to a dry clutch and some gears (this is where you put the final drive oil)and connected to a shaft to turn the back wheel. Correct me if I am wrong on this. When I first got my bike, I did alot of research, and different websites tells me different things, belt drive/shaft drive/gear drive, and i was going WTF? And thinking maybe different years have different systems.
The 400 is screw/nut type.

 

[Randy in norCal]

I just read a 400 tech sheet that says it's belt & shaft drive. :?

Well, let's see: there is a belt in the CVT, and the pullies are on shafts, so I guess you could call it "belt & shaft drive"...

Naw, your tech sheets are wrong. Where are they from?

I saw this listed on a spec sheet for a 400 for sale on Cycle Trader.

 

[Randy in norCal]

I just read a 400 tech sheet that says it's belt & shaft drive. :?
Also, how do you adjust the valves, screw/nut or shim under bucket?

The belt is connected to the back pulley where it is connected to a dry clutch and some gears (this is where you put the final drive oil)and connected to a shaft to turn the back wheel. Correct me if I am wrong on this. When I first got my bike, I did alot of research, and different websites tells me different things, belt drive/shaft drive/gear drive, and i was going WTF? And thinking maybe different years have different systems.
The 400 is screw/nut type.

Good, I don't DO shim under buckets. 8)

 

[Randy in norCal]

Can anyone here say how long a belt usually lasts(miles)?

 

[Brian]

Can anyone here say how long a belt usually lasts(miles)?

Suzuki says "life of the scooter" but that is a vague statement at best.

As far as I know, no one has had to replace a failed belt on a 400 or 650, and some have over 20,000 miles / 32,000km.

 

[philtag6000]

Can anyone here say how long a belt usually lasts(miles)?

As per my 04 Burgman 400 owner's manual page 37, replace drive V-belt at 24000km/14500miles/48 months. And it is page 2-2 Periodic maintenance on the Suzuki AN400 Service manual.

 

[Randy in norCal]

Can anyone here say how long a belt usually lasts(miles)?

As per my 04 Burgman 400 owner's manual page 37, replace drive V-belt at 24000km/14500miles/48 months. And it is page 2-2 Periodic maintenance on the Suzuki AN400 Service manual.

Excellant.

 

[NormanB]

Can anyone here say how long a belt usually lasts(miles)?

Suzuki says "life of the scooter" but that is a vague statement at best.

As far as I know, no one has had to replace a failed belt on a 400 or 650, and some have over 20,000 miles / 32,000km.

Steady on Chaps! :wink:

Here we go again chopping and changing subject between 400 and 650.

I believe the original question was 400 orientated.

The drive belt on the 400 should be inspected at 7500 mile intervals for cracks or damage. The width of the belt should be measured and replaced at 22mm or below. if any grease or oil is present the opportunity should be taken to degrease the belt. You will know when your belt is in trouble on the road as you will notice in performance/top speed.

User experience varies with belt life and is down to the duty it experiences. A clean cooling fan filter will help belt life. I would plan on a belt life of 15,000 miles - but what do I know. :wink:

When it comes to replacing the belt, use an OEM one, I have heard of disasterous results from using 'apparently cheaper' belts.

 

[Brian]

Steady on Chaps! :wink:

Here we go again chopping and changing subject between 400 and 650.....

You mean the Burgman comes in a 400? :lol:

Yeah, sometimes I can't see the forest for the trees. I always think about the 650 unless I'm actually looking at the 400 forum -- which I rarely do, since I don't know much about those puny little things. :wink:

Seriously, though; why would the belts on the 400 have to be routinely replaced when the 650's don't; or am I wrong about the 650?

 

[NormanB]

Steady on Chaps! :wink:

Here we go again chopping and changing subject between 400 and 650.....

[snipped]
Seriously, though; why would the belts on the 400 have to be routinely replaced when the 650's don't; or am I wrong about the 650?

Hi Brian

See you are on good form today! :wink:

Right then :!:

The 650 belts are a monument to engineering.

In simple terms the 400 belts are no more than alternator belts. That is where people come a cropper buying cheap belts as some enterprising git just finds an alternator belt of the right length and markets it as an alternative 400 Burger belt. Of course with drive belts it is not only length that is important but also width, profiles and angles - and material!

You were of course right about the 650 belt, in that it is a 'life of the bike' item. However, should you need to change the belt on your 'lardy arse' bike you will find that monuments to engineering are monumentally expensive. :lol: :lol:

 

[Brian]

...The 650 belts are a monument to engineering. ...However, should you need to change the belt on your 'lardy arse' bike you will find that monuments to engineering are monumentally expensive. :lol: :lol:

Speaking of being in good form; touche!

Thanks for the info, BTW.

 

[Randy in norCal]

I'm sorry guys, a belt is a belt. If I see a belt of equal dimensions in every way, but it costs 1/3 as much as a Suzuki belt, I'll take my chances by buying 2 of them @ the same time, just in case. :wink:

This reminds me of the fact that Ducati cam belts are made by Gates, but cost 2X as much as normal, because Ducati won't let Gates sell them separately to the public(special deal). Now, I'm not inferring that this is what Suzuki is doing, but things like this do happen.

 

[NormanB]

I'm sorry guys, a belt is a belt. If I see a belt of equal dimensions in every way, but it costs 1/3 as much as a Suzuki belt, I'll take my chances by buying 2 of them @ the same time, just in case. :wink:

snipped.

But that is the key point - the cheap belts are not.

 

[Brian]

I'm sorry guys, a belt is a belt. If I see a belt of equal dimensions in every way, but it costs 1/3 as much as a Suzuki belt, I'll take my chances by buying 2 of them @ the same time, just in case. :wink:

Ahhhh! Wrong answer; but thanks for playing. :roll:

A belt may look identical, and even measure out the same (or very close -- do you carry a micrometer while shopping?), but can you be sure it's made of the same composition? Not without destroying the belt to analyze it. (Got a gas chromatograph at home?)

Unless you have very reliable information that the cheaper belt is exactly the same, buying the cheaper one is a false economy. Not just the cost to replace (sure, two at 1/3 is cheaper), but also the down time, wear and tear on other components, etc.

It's your bike, do what you want; but don't say "A belt is a belt," cuz it just ain't so.