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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Again Everyone..

Regarding the recently purchased 06 Burgman 400 Type S, I have a question about the 240 watt amplifier currently installed and how it's wired right now.

The original owner disclosed to me that it was important to disconnect the positive wire if not running scooter for over a week due to parasitic drain issue even though its on a toggle.

Let me first explain how it is wired and then see if what he is saying makes any sense:

240 Watt Amplifier (wired to battery...not ignition)
FROM AMPLIFIER
Speaker leads to speakers
Positive lead to toggle "ACC"
Remote lead to Positive wire Battery Post
Ground lead direct to Negative Battery Post

FROM TOGGLE SWITCH (20Amp)
POWER to Battery Positive Post
Ground to wire connected to chassis nut
ACC to Amplifier Positive

Should there be any drain if the switch is left off?
 

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From what you've listed, the power lead and remote lead are wired backwards.

Remote should go directly to an ignition source (Power only when the bike is running).

Positive from the amp should go directly to the battery with no switch inline, but it should have a fuse.

If you wish to have a switch, it should go on the remote wire. It would be a good idea to have the switch so the amp does not draw power while starting the bike.

To answer your original question, if the remote lead is not energized, there should be no draw because the amp is not on. I would suggest if there is a battery issue after one week, the battery may be getting weak.


Also, just for FYI, there is no need to have power or ground to that switch if wired the way I suggest. UNLESS, it is a lighted toggle, which I assume it is.
 

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Here is a basic diagram of what I'm talking about. It just doesn't show a switch on the remote lead.



Also, fyi... if you are using a head unit, the remote lead should go to the power antenna/ remote lead on the head unit. Not to an ignition source. The head unit then acts as a switch for the amp.


.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks...Sounds like the guy I bought it from didn't want to wire the REMOTE to the the ignition wire as he was gun shy about talking the body panels apart. Lazy way ..I guess.
Only question I have is (since Burgman 400 Type S isn't ground to chassis) do I need anything coming off the negative battery post? Or anything ground for that matter?
 

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Now that I think about it more, since he has the two power leads wired backwards, that means the amp is still getting the signal to turn on internally. That could result in a small power draw.

If you simply switch the two wires as a describe, then you should not get a draw.

Let me add, there's nothing wrong with putting both wires to the positive battery post, and not bothering to find ignition. You just have to make sure the switch is never left on.

As for the ground, using the negative terminal on the battery for the ground wire is fine.
 

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I had the same problem with my LED's and had to put a switch to kill the power inline. The small voltage for sensing the remote would drain the battery in a week of not riding.
My 250 watt amp is switched/powered by a relay through the ignition and is completely dead when the key is turned off.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks... I intend to run Power direct to positive battery terminal with an in line fuse. And the Remote to the toggle switch. And the Ground from Amp to the negative on the battery post.

Being a 240 watt amp, I know on 12 volts that's 20amps. What should the inline fuse be? 20Amps?

I don't intend on cranking out the sound but wanna be sure on the fuse size.

Thanks
 

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What should the inline fuse be?

Thanks

That's dependent on the amp. Look up the specs to find out.

One more note, scottereno touched on it, use a relay for the ignition lead. Familer yourself with this..

The idea is the ignition wire trips the relay, the relay then draws power directly from the battery positive lead, instead of drawing juice from the ignition wire itself. A good idea on our "less than bold" charging, electrical systems on scoots.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for your info...bit complicated for me this route...but I do now understand the logic behind having it tied to the ignition through a relay and fuses.

I still think:
Power to Pos Battery terminal (inline 20A fuse).
Ground to Negative Battery terminal
Remote to Toggle Switch (ACC)

should be just an easier route (if switch(non-lighted and this set-up) if it doesn't drain battery in anyway other than forgetting to turn off switch.

Switch in the "ignition on" method having to add a switch anyway to protect the ignition coil from contacts burning out anyway....

Thanks
 
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