Suzuki Burgman USA Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,

I changed my 2018’s oil today - no problem. I did freak a tad when restarting because I’d never looked at the oil level sight glass when the engine was running ... so I didn’t know the oil level drops below the ‘fill line’ ... but now I know. Manual stated it would take 1.4 quarts ... but mine took more than that (changed filter too) to get up to the ‘full mark‘. Then after running and turning off, the oil fills back into the site glass and was lower than full, so I added a bit more.

THE REAL QUESTION + reason for this thread: has anyone changed gear oil on the new 400? I was hoping someone had posted a video (couldn’t find one) as how to remove all the body bits (frame cover) to be able to pull off the black side cover to remove the clutch cover plate to access the gear oil fill and drain plugs. The manual lists body items to remove: (attached) and there are some diagrams, but it doesn’t give many details (like where to hold and or pull) and I don’t want to break any bits.

I’d certainly appreciate any help with this as I want to do this type of service myself.


C0E7DDEB-2635-4B31-A7C1-31508A1AEF17.jpeg
663D8EED-2E6B-4CEB-952A-FDCD83D330D1.jpeg
CABE1638-32CB-4388-BD10-202A136BF063.jpeg
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Changed the gear oil on my 2013 400 once...don't remember much except I did need a syringe to make it easier to get the oil in. I don't recall having to remove a lot of plastic however.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Strangely enough I was pondering this while "Covid -19 lock down bored" in the garage to day, I reckon that the air cooling duct (3 bolts) and the main transmission cover (looks like another 2 bolts) can all be reached without removing the lower plastic, however, once removed I'm not sure if the transmission/belt cover will be in 2 parts or one, if it's in two parts then the back half will be easily removed to reveal the filling hole. The only thing that stops me when I next get bored from finding out is that the owner's hand book states "7000 miles or 24 months" for oil changing intervals - mine has not got to that stage yet and is still got half of the 3 year warranty (which also then ties me into dealer servicing) to run. That said, I too change the engine oil and filter - halving the prescribed mileage, so maybe if someone can shed some light on the lower covers I may do the transmission oil as well!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,033 Posts
hoooleey jeeez, my 2008 400, all the plastic was just the cover over the cvt, a 10 mm socket and a little cussin to get the front top one! this looks like the joke about the retired gynecologist who painted the inside of his house thru the keyhole!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
hoooleey jeeez, my 2008 400, all the plastic was just the cover over the cvt, a 10 mm socket and a little cussin to get the front top one! this looks like the joke about the retired gynecologist who painted the inside of his house thru the keyhole!
So Mikey, was there a secondary metal cover below the plastic "cover over the cvt"? I reckon Suzuki wouldn't have changed too much between the '08 and current models so you insight may be of use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Due to Mikey's reply I looked up Mitch's "removal of CVT and transmission case" video, there are slight differences between 2007 and current models - mainly the transmission cooling vent pipe comes off the front of the "3 bolt filter cover part", once this and the "2 bolt" larger plastic cover comes off it looks like that below that is an alloy, one part, belt/transmission cover (with gasket), this has 10ish bolts (which Mitch numbers as they are different sizes) - but unfortunately this does mean the lower body work on the CVT side will have to come off, I remember someone here commenting on how to undo the cable clips and that Mitch uses tape to re-fix the cable onto the alloy cover on refitting.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,033 Posts
So Mikey, was there a secondary metal cover below the plastic "cover over the cvt"? I reckon Suzuki wouldn't have changed too much between the '08 and current models so you insight may be of use.
yup, jack screws must be used to get that metal cover off, and if the bearing comes off with it, don't be surprised, the metal gasket under the metal cover is uncooperative going back on, mine rested peacefully in the scrap metal bin after the second removal, I cannot say if this was a good idea or not as a pig ate my first 400 and a pickup truck the second, before I had many miles on them
I used a piece of cardboard shaped roughly like the metal cover with holes poked in it where the screws /bolts went, as they came out of the metal cover they went in the cardboard at the same place, never lost any, never got them mixed up.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JC'sWheels

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I watched Mitch’s vid as well. The removal of the passenger foot rest and the rear side panels looked easier than on the new 400 ... I noticed the bearing too ... so now I’m start to rethink doing the gear oil myself.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,033 Posts
if you are concerned about breaking plastic, and it is your baby, is the temp crackhead at the garage gonna be as careful about removing the plastic on a bike he has never seen before, ? burgmans aren't that common, most mechs don't have any expertise and just figure things out using the internet and some manuals just like you would, only they get paid for getting it done fast. Trust your dealership mechanic like you would trust a fat man with a melting candy bar.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JC'sWheels

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I get it ... though my dealer has sold 3 and has already serviced mine … so he has some experience. Going to chat with him about it if nothing comes from this thread.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Well it rained today - so into the garage and using an inspection mirror I located the screws, plastic rivets, bodywork clips and the push on grommet. The only part that needs removing to reveal the CVT casing and cooling fan intake hose is "Part 3 in the diagram 9D-6 Exterior Parts" and to get to that you have to first remove the shiny "foot rest trim which simply pulls off.
However, I realised that to remove ALL of the Plastic CVT outer casing you would have to break a foam seal that is fitted to the underside of the CVT casing. Not wishing to give the dealer any excuse with my warranty I left it alone, however, while there I cleaned debris of the foam air filter using a soft paint brush.
I took some photo's once I have refitted everything I'll update how it all went and if i can figure out how to upload the photo's I'll add them as well...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
^^^^^
Continued from above,
At the time of typing the above comment I was in from the garage and looking at the "on line" workshop manual that covers models from 2007 to 2015 for any torque figures for replacing the bolts I had undone - none found, so re-tightened everything using the "torque settings" life gives you by doing it wrong in the past!

One thing I forgot to mention is that the front part of "Part 5 in the diagram 9D-6 Exterior Parts" (shown as the overlapping bit of Part 3) has to be gently pulled off it's clips just enough to get to the lower plastic rivet shown on Part 3 - the diagram shows 2 such rivets close together opposite part 5.
Needless to say, I forgot this fact on refitting and wondered why I had one of the **** rivets over towards the end of the refit. Other than that and applying common sense when realigning the panels to avoid scratches it is an easy job taking about 30 mins either way (add on the time for a beer while feeling smug).

I apologise for trying to verbally explain the process without the photo's I mentioned, but due to Covid 19 lockdown my normal "computer experts" - any one of the 11 grandkids we have, are unable to visit and sort it for me. I looked at finding a forum "how to" but being a complete computer idiot failed completely - sorry.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Thx, JC’sWheels. I appreciate all your assistance and details. I will try it Saturday when I have time to get back in the garage. Can you post pics on Flickr or other posting tool or email them direct to [email protected]? Cheers!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Huge thanks to JC's Wheels for the following pictures + info that he emailed to me:


I highlighted the panel to be removed (this was John's last pic showing he was successful in putting it all back together).
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


first stage - pulling the heel guard off it's tabs
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


gentle pulling off of part 5 on your diagram (above) - just enough to get to the "plastic pin rivet" underneath, it will pull off it's tabs with gentle pulling.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


lower side panel removed. you can see the mounting tabs/clips.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


shows the fixing grommet (similar to many side case panels EG Honda), this takes a bit of a tug to get apart.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


shows the corresponding pin for the above grommet.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


shows larger plastic rivet holder hidden up under the top part of the wheel arch (on part #3)
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


the exposed CVT casing and air filter pipe.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


the debris on the CVT air filter. Good idea to access and clean. Can do this without removing entire plastic cover.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


the simple tools I used including some ACF-50 - which I used to protect the exposed parts with that I hadn't been able to coat before!

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Next, we can pull the CVT cover and the clutch cover plate to access the drain and fill plugs!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,033 Posts
ok, I am sooo out, thats waay different from anything I have seen!
 
  • Like
Reactions: JC'sWheels

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Huge thanks to JC's Wheels for the following pictures + info that he emailed to me:


I highlighted the panel to be removed (this was John's last pic showing he was successful in putting it all back together).
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


first stage - pulling the heel guard off it's tabs
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


gentle pulling off of part 5 on your diagram (above) - just enough to get to the "plastic pin rivet" underneath, it will pull off it's tabs with gentle pulling.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


lower side panel removed. you can see the mounting tabs/clips.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


shows the fixing grommet (similar to many side case panels EG Honda), this takes a bit of a tug to get apart.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


shows the corresponding pin for the above grommet.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


shows larger plastic rivet holder hidden up under the top part of the wheel arch (on part #3)
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


the exposed CVT casing and air filter pipe.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


the debris on the CVT air filter. Good idea to access and clean. Can do this without removing entire plastic cover.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


the simple tools I used including some ACF-50 - which I used to protect the exposed parts with that I hadn't been able to coat before!

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Next, we can pull the CVT cover and the clutch cover plate to access the drain and fill plugs!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Thank you for the post. I have a 2018 400 also and it's nice to get a little help because sometimes you don't know what the slight differences are that make a huge difference compared with older models. I know experience vets will say the changes are merely cosmetic, however, when it's your first Burgman, first scooter, and you have no experience with the basics, the "cosmetics" are confusing and frustrating. I am majorly disappointed with the factory service manual which has little detail or explanation of how to actually do anything. It is more a series of schematic diagrams, parts list, and special tools lists. It is absolute bare bones on how to do anything leaving out most of the important details. I hope that more 2018 models how to's are documented this well. Thanks again for your diligence. Maybe I can contribute down the road with one of my mods.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,822 Posts
No don't use anti seize. My clutch cover 2008 pops right off. Put a skosh of oil on the dowels.
I do not remove any tupperware on my 2008 to do case work, OR to R&R rear tire. Removing plastic is off the Pain and Misery chart.
 
  • Like
Reactions: s-steel
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top