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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi Gang
I started noticing a difference in the performance of my ride, my RPM's have increased between 2-300rpm to maintain a 70mph cruising speed. Another is the bike is coasting with much less engine braking and during a very slow takeoff there is a shutter (Slip-grab-slip-grab-slip-grab) from 1600-1900rpm (Not violent but very noticeable) from 2K rpm she seems to pull good but revs increase a lot quicker and a bit higher than normal. She is a 2012 Executive with a tic under 27,000 miles and my riding habitat is NYC (5 Boroughs) everyday except for Ice and snow.
Looking for opinions on whether or not I should lay the bike up and remove the clutch. Thanks in advance for any and all assistance/advice.
 

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Did you do an oil change recently ?
 

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I changed the oil October last year and she seemed fine then. I use Castrol SAE 10w-40 4T motorcycle oil which has the JASO MA-2 & API SG certifications.
Well it’s not the oil then....

We have had reports of people with similar problems using different oils than what you used.
 

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Seems low milage for the clutch but if your not sure of the bikes history then it's possible. There is a test for checking the clutch, think it's in the workshop book. Anyway the good news is it's dead easy to swap. I picked up a second hand one for my 2006 and had it all changed in a couple of hours. The whole clutch just slides off once you have removed the outer cover. You might need to get a new gasket to be on the safe side.
 

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Found it, Buffalo posted it way back.

There is a test procedure to confirm it:
Start the bike and warm the engine up.
Sit on the bike and apply the front and rear brakes as firmly as you can.
While watching the tach open the throttle fully and note how high the rpm goes. Do not hold the throttle open for more than 3 seconds.
The tach should go to somewhere between 3200 and 3800 rpm and stop, If it goes higher the clutch is slipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Seems low milage for the clutch but if your not sure of the bikes history then it's possible. There is a test for checking the clutch, think it's in the workshop book. Anyway the good news is it's dead easy to swap. I picked up a second hand one for my 2006 and had it all changed in a couple of hours. The whole clutch just slides off once you have removed the outer cover. You might need to get a new gasket to be on the safe side.
I've had the bike since new and have used the same oil the entire time but my riding environment here in NYC is rough on equipment and I feel too that the mileage is a bit low but wasn't quite sure if all of the stop and go would actually cut the life in half.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Found it, Buffalo posted it way back.

There is a test procedure to confirm it:
Start the bike and warm the engine up.
Sit on the bike and apply the front and rear brakes as firmly as you can.
While watching the tach open the throttle fully and note how high the rpm goes. Do not hold the throttle open for more than 3 seconds.
The tach should go to somewhere between 3200 and 3800 rpm and stop, If it goes higher the clutch is slipping.
I didn't see that in my shop manual, I will go warm her up and give a run and get back to you. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I found it under section 2-32 for clutch engagement low and max, engages at 2k consistently ( A bit high) and at max throttle with the brakes locked for no more than 3 seconds she only got to 3400rpm.
Thanks for the info I missed the full throttle test outlined in the manual. I'll keep going till she hates it. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I haven't had time with all that has been going on. I'm gonna get to it this weekend and I will report back. Sorry brother.
 

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I ride a 2013 with just under 30,000 miles. I am experiencing the slipping after 20 miles or so and progressively gets worse until the bike sits and cools back down. I've been running Rotella T6 in the engine and clutch. I ran Penn 10w40 briefly in the clutch until I heard that the engine and clutch donate fluids to each other so Rotella in both. I am currently waiting on new clutch plates, springs and gasket do arrive and will let you know if that solves my problem. I was thinking I have too few miles for needing a clutch rebuild being that I haven't used any non compliant oils, so maybe riding behavior and environment make all the difference. I commute on the bike mostly with a few long weekender rides and trips when time permits. I would also start from stops pretty spiritedly in the beginning to get out in front of cagers(because I like to watch their jaws drop) but have since simmered on down because I'm probably shortening belt life as well. Only do it if I need to now. So hopefully all parts will be in by this Tuesday and it will fix my problem and will rekindle the love of my bike. Right now we've hit a rough patch.
 

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Well the clutch got rebuilt today and it seems to back to it's old self. I only did a 5ish mile test run and really stomped on it so I think it's been healed. Now I'm just waiting for the bike to cool back down so I can top off the "transmission" oil and put some body panels back on. Hopefully this will last me awhile since the 650's demise rumor is still percolating on here.
 

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