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Discussion Starter #21
Absolutely I agree with you. I only gave it 30 seconds last night because I had a lot of other stuff going on. If I have time tonight, I'll break out the magnifier. Thanks.
 

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Just fit the one of ebay you have a half a dozen bolts and a wheel to remove job done why faff about with possibly damaged bearings and trying to swap out parts seems to be fraught with danger
 

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Discussion Starter #23
1. I seriously doubt swapping the whole assembly is as easy as most think. And,
2. I've already to my original assembly in pieces, so I can judge that it is not going to be difficult to swap parts.

The most difficult tasks are going to be 1) getting the snap ring off the 1st gear. 2) Driving the no good bearing out. And, getting all the **** dog hair our of the inside of the housing before I put it back together.

My mongrel is not going to live much longer. She is the most hair shedding varmint on the planet. It is disgusting. She's also acting retarded now. Doing non-sensical stuff. Yesterday she pulled the plastic latches off my socket set box, and scattered them out in the garage where I had to go hunt for them. It made no sense.
 

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7milesout said:
3. I'll be the forum FD lab rat. You guys could always use someone to laugh at, and say, "I told you so," in the case that I have to bust it open again, or just remove and swap out the whole thing.
Old saying.... "No one is totally worthless, ... They can always be used as a bad example!"

;)
 

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Old saying.... "No one is totally worthless, ... They can always be used as a bad example!"

;)
That’s why you let me hang out here.
 
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Discussion Starter #26
Guys,

What is the quickest and easiest way to move the plastic piece with the passenger footrest (that's blocking out the front side of the FD) out of the way? I'm going to need it out of the way to get to the snap ring on gear #1.

91612
 

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LeDude's page is missing the photos for some reason but the words are there.

 

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Guys,

What is the quickest and easiest way to move the plastic piece with the passenger footrest (that's blocking out the front side of the FD) out of the way? I'm going to need it out of the way to get to the snap ring on gear #1.

View attachment 91612
Remove the rubber on the footrest it just pulls up. 1. 10mmPlastic pop bolt underneath just forward of the rear shock push in the centre and pull the body out. 2 Another one underneath in front of the centre stand this is a mushroom type pop out the centre and pull.
3. 2x5mm chrome (they were chrome once anyway) hex bolts at sidestand level facing you. 4 I think 3 posi screws on the passenger footrest under the rubber.
Remove all these and pull the end nearest the shock away slightly and a bit of downward pressure should release it the front of that panel is just forward of the side stand. Slide the panel over the side stand job done. Have fun getting it back on Tip of the week get the front end located in first and no cussing
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Seems like gear #1 would have to be removed in order to take my original FD off (plus all the other things to be done). If so, that means the replacement FD will have to have its cover removed, gear #1 set out, put the FD on then re-attach gear number 1, follow by putting the cover back on … no?
 

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No the #1 gear does not need to be removed to take the final drive off. Once you take the rear wheel off and the lower shock absorber bolts out then you take out the three bolts that hold the swingarm and final drive together. Take off the speed sensor and it's wire clamp Take off the ABS sensor and wire clamp if your bike has ABS. Then you can pull the swingarm off from the right and the final drive off from the left. The final drive just slides off the output shaft from the engine. That shaft has splines that fit into the #1 gear to provide the positive connection between them.
 

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As Buffalo says it's a game of two halves. You will need to drop your exhaust off to get the three bolts holding the two halves together out and give better access to the pivot bolt on the swingarm Perfect opportunity to copper slip your exhaust header bolts. Just disconnect the lambda sensor. Taking the rad off makes it easier to get to the bolts, ideal time to change the coolant. This will mean no special tools needed as you can do a straight swap and if you feel the need and expense rebuild the original at your leisure when funds are available.
 

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I did forget to include taking the exhaust system off. I don't however see that removing the radiator makes taking off the exhaust any easier. But that may be because I have a table lift that gets the bike up where getting to stuff on the underside easier.
 

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I did forget to include taking the exhaust system off. I don't however see that removing the radiator makes taking off the exhaust any easier. But that may be because I have a table lift that gets the bike up where getting to stuff on the underside easier.
It's all to do with the angle getting the ratchet spanner and extension in and keeping the skin on your knuckles and easier to reinstall I like an easy life.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Guys, maybe I'm wrong. But there appears to be an snap-ring just inside the shaft of the #1 gear. I didn't try it, but I did assume that snap ring would need to be removed to get the #1 gear to slide off. And if that is true, I can't see how the whole main housing would come off (because the #1 gear would come with it) without removing the snap ring. And the snap ring cannot be removed without removing the FD cover. However, if the gear will come off without removal of the snap ring, then it is just that much easier for me. I'll mess with it tonight if I have time.

I just changed the coolant a couple thousand miles ago.

I'll say, that if that snap ring doesn't need to come off, then I can do this without moving the left leg cover Tupperware thing. I have snap-ring pliers, but if I don't have to use them then yahoo.

No offense, but I'm 60% down the road with my minimalist's approach. Meaning, I've got the cover off, all but the #1 gear and the bad bearing are removed. I'm trying to borrow a bearing puller, so I don't have to buy one for a 1 time, 5 minute use. I have the parts I need ordered from vendors with said parts in stock, so all the crap should be here by next week.

If all goes well, I'll have it back together in 7 to 10 days. I'm sure life will get in the way though. I'm already planning a 10 mile flush, 100 mile flush and 500 mile flush. If I see good results from that, I'll ride it out and hope I never have any more trouble. All for less than $200. I know there's a more complete and thorough way of doing this. But I prefer this route for various reasons.
 

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(You are clearly committed to swapping the bearings and gears out so I will bow out of this one good luck hope it works out with no future issues(y)
 

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When I pulled the swingarm and FD off mine I didn't have to pull the cover off the final drive or take out any snap ring. I never took the FD apart or even took the cover off it. I was doing an engine swap and I just took them off the old engine and bolted them to the new engine. A quick and simple job.
 
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When I pulled the swingarm and FD off mine I didn't have to pull the cover off the final drive or take out any snap ring. I never took the FD apart or even took the cover off it. I was doing an engine swap and I just took them off the old engine and bolted them to the new engine. A quick and simple job.
Ditto sorry curtain call and encore :p
 

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He's made up his mind, don't confuse him with facts or experience. It will turn out right in the end any way he does it; he just likes the extra work.
 
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