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Discussion Starter #1
I finally got to take the cover off my final drive. I said to myself, I sure do hope this is something I'm going to be able to discern ... and fix. At first, when I pulled the cover off, everything looked good. I played around with things for a while, and then I noticed the #2 gear (#1 being the driven gear from the clutch output, and number 5 being the big one that drives the rear wheel) looked chewed up on the last 3rd of the tooth lengths. Looks like it went all the way around. Then I thought, what would cause that?

Then I started looking at the #2 bearings. The bearing on the FD main housing had something sticking out. I looked up the names of the parts of a bearing. It looked like most of a cage was sticking out. I haven't stuck my head up in there, but that ball may be missing and chewed up. Then I noticed the driven gear's teeth were chewed up about half as bad as #2. Perhaps a ball chewed up the gears. And perhaps that's what gave my first FD oil change the very gray color. That sounds like the most likely cause. But also, it could be that the #2 gear was able to squirm with that bearing not quite being right. But squirming ... I don't believe would chew the gears up like what's happened.

The number 3 gear looked like about 50% as bad as #2. The number 4 showed some slight signs of damage. The big ole number 5 looked OK. Below are pictures. Maybe this damage can be seen on the pictures. Maybe this site can compress the file sizes of my pictures, otherwise I'll have to compress them tomorrow.

The #2 cage can be seen sticking out at ~the 1:00 position.
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Close up of the cage sticking out.
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#1 driven gear with excessive wear and damage.
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#2 gear abuse. Is that even some signs of damage on the gear's smooth bore, from the problem with the bearing?
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Back to the drawing board I suppose. I'm thinking it would be easier to buy a used FD and replace component-by-component, rather than to tear off the whole dang FD and replace it.

Questions? Comments? Suggestions? Concerns?


7milesout
 

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The whole swingarm splits in two with three bolts on the right side. You may need to reset the swingarms tension on part 5,6,7 in the diagram picture below. Its in the service manual and is easy.

A 2009 through 2012 I know will interchange and a 2013 up may also but I do not know for sure. The 2002-2008 had a different right side swingarm and the brake caliper bolts on different.

Right swingarm.png
 
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You need to change ALL the bearings in there including the ones in the part of the case you tore off. You didn't include pix of the other gears but I'll wager you will never get a quiet rear drive with any of those in there either. Happy Motoring.
 

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If the bearings did not spin the outter race in the alumum case then just replacing all 5 gears and 9 bearings may work. But I'd keep the Ebay bearings with the same Ebay gears.
 
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yup...what macceht said. I was too slow this morning...but I'm gonna post ho anyway.
 

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Ironically my 14 plate engine failed for exactly the same reason. I only knew as part of the bearing cage from the main bearing as shown with the sharpie pen popped out of the sump plug during a routine service at 32k miles. Bottom photo is what was regurgitated out my sump plug. Engine was still running fine but would have seized eventually so I put a SH 06 engine in it and rebuilt the original as a spare. I would rebuild the tramsmission if possible if the $$ can stretch to it
91600
91601
91602
 

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It's ok to pull the old bearings out using the center race as you will be discarding them anyway. If you pull the bearings out of the new/used cases by the center races you will maybe damage them by deforming their cages. The damage most likely will not be visible. They are radial bearings and do not do well with side loads. If you don't know how to properly get the bearings out your plan will almost certainly end in tears. If you buy a working final drive, install a working final drive. When I worked it was as a master Red Seal millwright with close to forty years experience. I have worked on bearings with center races too small to get your pinky through and others that have center races large enough to crawl through. As usual my advice is worth what you have paid for it. Happy Motoring.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'll go back and catch on the replies I've missed. But wanted to mention 2 things.

  1. I'm about 85% certain that cover had been off before. On the left lower screw, there is a bendable wire slack holder. Mine was holding no wire. And in an upper left screw there was wire strain relief that was not captured by the screw. It was floating loose. All very typical low level workmanship performed by dealership monkeys.
  2. I think the following is a good purchase. I'm talking to them on the phone. This unit has all the gears and bearings inside. 2008 08 Suzuki Burgman 650 AN650 Transmission Secondary Gear Box OEM B2593 | eBay Could I get your opinions?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Bearings should be made to where the cage doesn't ever stick out. And such that the other parts of the bearings don't fail either.

But dayim 鈥 the whole thought of beating the crap out of a bearing to get it out (on a replacement FD) in order to swap it into my FD housing, is currently killing this idea. I can't imagine I can pull those out in the unit linked above, without damaging them 鈥 or at least one of them. Then I'm back in the same boat.

I guess, I might have to look at replacing the whole thing. Those bearing are $22 each 鈥 that's not a horrible option though. I'm not sure that FD that I linked is the best option in replacing the whole unit. Woe-is-meeeee!


7milesout
 

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Part numbers for comparison
You could cost the gears and if cheaper and compatible pull them from the 08 and fit new bearings. You would need to check part numbers but if it helps my 14 plate swingarm and final gear bolted straight onto an 06 engine
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Minimalist Approach:
  • I procure 1 new bearing, for around $22, maybe $25 after tax. I replace the one bad bearing. Of course I will inspect all the other bearings closely to make sure they seem OK.
  • I procure the 1 FD unit I linked above.
  • I use the bearing whomper to remove the no good bearing, and replace it with the 1 new bearing procured. In that way, that new bearing will not have had its inner race whomped.
  • I swap the gears to the gears from the 1 FD unit procured and linked above.
  • I lube the sheeeat out of all this crap and put it back together.
  • I do a couple flushes just to warsh the remaining metal out of the dagum FD.
  • I cross my fingers, cinch my butt cheeks and hope for the best.
No?
 

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I would compare your unit mountings and the ones on the ebay one plus the final drive as in the wheel fits in. I am 99% sure they will be a straight swap that way no womping or other shenanigans required
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Or, You can put your whole aluminum gear case in your oven at 250 , take it out and the bearings should fall out for you.
You ARE the charbroil expert. But The Warden won't let me put the Burgman in the oven... 馃榿

And I'm not pulling that whole thing off the bike if I don't have to. That's how nuclear wars are started...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If there are no OBJECTIONS, I think I shall proceed down the minimalist's path. For 3 reasons.
  1. I had 30 seconds last night to check out all the other bearings. They looked really pretty, and my eyeball told my brain that no other cages were sticking out. My finger told my brain that the others felt smooth. Even though I know that's not that great of an evaluation due to them not being under load via my finger.
  2. I can monitor the ongoing health and well being of the FD with frequent oil changes. As well as I can hear it. Fellers, this thing was screaming loud. On the interstate there was a harmonic from it at ~70 mph, that I'm certain other travelers could hear even with their windows up. I mentioned in other threads that this thing was LOUD. But no one ever said boo, so I figured they were all loud.
  3. I'll be the forum FD lab rat. You guys could always use someone to laugh at, and say, "I told you so," in the case that I have to bust it open again, or just remove and swap out the whole thing.
Going once!

Going twice! 馃敤 (let's pretend that's a gavel waiting to whomp down).
 

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Take a few more seconds out of your busy life and examine your bearings with a magnifier. The balls are surface hardened and should all be bright and shiny. Look carefully for just one ball that is dull and not shiny. The gray stuff that was drained out in your oil was wearing the balls and cages down. Any balls that have the surface hardening worn off are going to continue to wear at an accelerated rate putting more gray stuff into the lube and make the whole bearing loose. Just one loose bearing in that drive set will wear your new gears and in a short time will put you back where you are now. I'm not objecting; I'd just like to see you increase your chances for success. Most racers know that half fast efforts lead to half fast finishes.
 
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