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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a 2011 Burgman 400 (used) with ABS on DEC 26, 2013 (so, it is going on 3 years old). Fluid in view glass is a bit discolored (starting to turn brownish, a sign of moisture in the fluid). I would like to change it at least this once.

First Question --- I assume DOT 4 Brake Fluid? I bought DOT 4 when in the auto parts store yesterday anticipating that I would change the fluid. I will check owners manual to see if it says what type. JUST THOUGHT I would ask the FORUM in case manual does not say.

Second Question -- I am asking this because a friend with a Harley (100K plus miles on it) plans to have his fluid replaced. It is an ABS Brake System and he said his manual requires some computer reset after a Brake Fluid Change (something to do with setting the valves in the caliper used by the ABS). He also has a new model Indian MC with ABS and it does not say anything about a computer reset. Confusing!!

I wonder if anyone knows regards to the Burgman 400 with ABS???

A bit of history and how I do it::

I do not see why A Gravity Bleed Fluid Change would cause a problem on an ABS system as it works on Non ABS systems. It is not like taking all the fluid out and then refilling as you do not get air in the system if you keep the master cylinder full on the gravity bleed. At least I have never had a problem doing it on NON ABS systems.

IN THE PAST on all of the three MCs and the Burgman 650 I have owned (NONE WERE ABS), I simply did a brake fluid replacement by Gravity Bleed at the caliper while KEEPING THE MASTER CYLINDER FULL. When the fluid coming out of the caliper looks clean, I stop the bleed and top off the master cylinder the final time and close it up.

I am not big on changing brake fluid yearly or every two years as it is recommended. However, MC's are easy to do using the gravity bleed method. I have never had any problems (no air in the system and no further bleeding required after I close the system). That said, it probably does not get all the fluid out of the caliper as well as using a tool to suck it out and drain the master cylinder because the bleed screw is on the topside of the caliper and some fluid is below that. I think better than doing nothing. :)

I have never changed brake fluid on a car (even 5 or 10 yr old cars). I did change it in my motor home once over a 13 year period by Gravity Bleed and keeping the master cylinder full. Also, changed it again when I had to replace all the calipers (they were holding the brakes on after you used them).
 

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First and Foremost . . .

My first suggestion is that if you plan to do much more than change the oil and filter, pick up a copy of the shop manual. It's NOT cheap but it should answer the majority of questions you will ever have.

Second, did you get a copy of the owner's manual? If not, go back and ask for it. It should tell you what brake fluid to use. I would presume DOT 4. DOT 5, if I remember correctly, is a pure silicon fluid that DOES NOT MIX (read that as incompatible) with DOT 4.

Third, congratulations, and enjoy. I'm glad that you noticed the fluid and are willing to jump in and change it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My first suggestion is that if you plan to do much more than change the oil and filter, pick up a copy of the shop manual. It's NOT cheap but it should answer the majority of questions you will ever have.

Second, did you get a copy of the owner's manual? If not, go back and ask for it. It should tell you what brake fluid to use. I would presume DOT 4. DOT 5, if I remember correctly, is a pure silicon fluid that DOES NOT MIX (read that as incompatible) with DOT 4.

Third, congratulations, and enjoy. I'm glad that you noticed the fluid and are willing to jump in and change it.
Thanks for the quick come back, I do have owners manual and figured the type fluid would be called out (Just did not get around to looking before this question regarding Fluid Change on Harley with ABS was brought up by friend -- strong guess DOT4 and agree DOT5 is silicon based). Just thought I would ask.

I imagine you are right on the Shop Manual (just never have, depended a lot on forums). :)
 

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Most if not all of the bikes I have had over the years has the brake fluid requirements stamped on the brake reservoir cap. Dot 4 is stamped on my 650 cap.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Most if not all of the bikes I have had over the years has the brake fluid requirements stamped on the brake reservoir cap. Dot 4 is stamped on my 650 cap.
It probably is - I have not looked, but I will as well as look in the manual.

THE MAIN THING I am after is if anyone with ABS BRAKES has changed the fluid by Gravity Bleed and Filling the Reservoir while bleeding and DID IT CAUSE ANY PROBLEMS (like some reset of the system as is required by my friends HARLEY)??? ANYBODY ???:confused:

I got tied up moving the GIVI Box from the brokedown 650 to the 400. Drilled 4 new holes in the mounting plate to line up with the 400 preset holes, bought some new bolts (4 as needed different length vs the 3 from the 650).

I left the plastic tail section off. (top part that is under the GIVI bag). It shows, but allows the GIVI to sit lower (just a couple inches) and saves the plastic for future use (like selling the Scooter without the GIVI Bag).

I do not like the looks of those bags on a Scooter or any bike for that matter (spoils the clean line). However, it is handy and serves as a backrest when the wife rides (not often that she does).
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
It is stamped on the Reservoir Cover -- DOT 4

Guess no one has a comment about using Gravity Method on an ABS system?

Only reason I questioned it is that my buddy's Harley require some sort of digital reset (I think that is what he called it). I guess I will just do it and see what happens.
 

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You should be able to do regular bleed, don't let reservoir run dry... if you do need to cycle the valves in the ABS, then do a skid on a gravel road if you don't have a scan tool, then re bleed as required.
 

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Just did a fluid change on my FJR1300 today. That has ABS. It also mentioned in the manual about cycling the valves. I just bled them as normal. No problems at all and didn't need to cycle anything. Of course, the Burg may be different........
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks -- A couple inputs (answers) to the one important question about valve recyling.

I will take a chance with the gravity change method as I do not see how the valves would be affected (it never see any air if you keep the resrvoir full).

It is not like sucking the fluid out of the caliper and the reservoir and then refilling.
 

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I don't have access to a manual for the 07+ 400 but I doubt it will need any kind of reset. The 650 Exec with ABS does not call for any kind of reset when you change the fluid in it. I've changed the fluid in my 650 a couple of time and did not need to do any type of reset.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I don't have access to a manual for the 07+ 400 but I doubt it will need any kind of reset. The 650 Exec with ABS does not call for any kind of reset when you change the fluid in it. I've changed the fluid in my 650 a couple of time and did not need to do any type of reset.
Thanks. That is a real positive.
 

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If we do an ABS on a car and it gets Air into the valve body, we generally have to cycle the valves to remove the air. Scan tool is the preferred method whilst pressure bleeding which will turn the pump motor on during bleed procedure ... This is not required During a regular bleed as long as you have not let air into this system.

Mechanic shops that do not have the up-to-date ABS software, usually do a half bleed, take the vehicle out on the gravel road and put it into a skid, this will cycle the ABS valves moving the air towards the rear you then have to do a rebleed as required. To keep an ABS system in good shape, every time you turn the car on the ABS cycles it's solenoids and does a test on electrical circuits before turning the ABS light off.

This bleed procedure should be the same for motorbike, do a gravity bleed and do not pump the brakes, also stay with the bike whilst you're doing so.

If you do get Air in to the system you will release bleeder valve, pull brake handle 3/4 full and have somebody tighten the bleeder valve, you can then release the handle brake lever. Repeat as required !
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Chappy -- I am beginning to understand that the reset valve thing is only if you get air in the system.

I have not done the Fluid Change Yet.

Unless some earth shattering info to not do it, I intend to do the change by the gravity bleed and keep the reservoir full.

I got involved (involved is an understatement - it became my life for a week :eek: ) installing a new rear tire (Car Tire) and not much else accomplished during that time.
 
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