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Discussion Starter #1
First: I am at 32K Miles with never an adjustment (except I assume Previous Owner had it done at 600 miles). I take a chance I guess and do not check valves as recommended (interval). I had 52K on a 2008 NINJA 500 first Valve adjustment (ALSO, my first valve adjustment ever - so, I am not experienced wrencher, but I do perform many tasks myself, like changing the belt and rollers on the Burgman).

Exhaust on NINJA was like .002 (spec is .007). Took a chance and lucked out. It is a screw and lock nut system and I adjusted. One thing though - I had to drain water as coolant hoses attach through the valve cover. Looks like no water lines involved with the Burgman 400.

Not sure what I will do if the Burg 400 is out of spec (think I might trailer it to dealer and see what they would charge to do the adjustments (Shims).


Questions start here:

I have reviewed the Part 1 and Part 2 Videos and making some written instructions that I can take to workshop where Scooter is stored and where I will do the work. DO IT, assuming I convince my self I can. I THINK I CAN THINK I CAN.

At completion of Part 2 Video, you are referred to Part 3. I cannot find Part 3. Looked and looked.

Is there a Part 3 and what is it? (I would assume it is the actual adjustment or just putting stuff back together).
 

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Think the part 3 was supposed to come but Mitch's bike didn't need the adjustment. So by that time he was already a happy camper. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks - I kind of wondered if that was the situation.

Guess if I get it checked (think I will try to do that - looks more trouble than my NINJA 500 to get to it) and it does need it. I may see if dealer will do it reasonable since valves are exposed.

Haul it over to dealer on a trailer. I don't think I want to mess with the SHIM Method.
 

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Paul from reading your previous posts about the things you have done on your bike, I think you are more than capable of adjusting the valve clearances. Checking is easy as you know. But as long as you read up and have a workshop manual, there is nothing in there that will cause you a problem. It's just having some good basic tools and the confidence to do it. You are very capable I can see that. However, a dealer will do it quicker than you if you are doing it for the first time. It's the sort of thing you should not rush if not done before. Main thing is, to check them and adjust if needed whoever does it. Don't leave it.
 

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Mech what if the valves of a pair are both within the spec bot not equal to each other. Would they still need adjustment?
 

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if they are both in spec then I'd leave them even if they are a little uneven. If there is a big difference with one near to the tighter end, I tend to bring them both back to mid specs. Popping out the cams is no big deal if you've done it before. If you haven't then take your time and it's easy enough for most folks if you are used to handling tools.
 

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I'm scared to do this. I have successfully done this on a Yamaha atv with the screw and jam nut set up, but I have no idea what a shim even looks like!
Ps, I'm sure you know, but I was always told that the engine should be stone cold!!!
 

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Then better do it in winter ;)
 
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