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1st Belt was Original CVT Belt was changed at 22,680 miles and changed the Rolllers to Dr Pulley 19 GM Sliders at that time. BTW, Belt looked OK.

2nd Belt (Suzuki) broke at 41, 215 miles (18,535 miles of use). I replaced out of necessity (obviously). I did not change the Dr Pulley Sliders

3rd Belt (Suzuki) was replaced at 61,801 miles (20,586 miles of use). I installed new Dr Pulley Sliders when I changed the belt. By The Way, the performance before this replacement seemed as good as when parts were new (or not any obvious problems). I replaced because of concern of miles used (after all I had a breakage at 18,535 miles of use on 2nd Belt).

NOTE: Measurements on width of old CVT Belt (3rd Belt) were within what I think is specification for a good belt. However not sue that should be the only criteria when you consider MFG recommends replacement ever 10,000 or 11,000 miles (correct me if I am wrong on that number, seems that is what it is).

I made some measurements on the old (3rd Belt with 20,586 miles) and new belt 4th Belt) and took some pictures (wrote some info and measurements on the pictures).

The pictures also show parts and process used during replacements. I realize there is plenty of INFO on the process all-ready published and I am not trying to say this INFO is better. I am hoping it might be of some use to someone. :angel

I will start with the CVT Cover Removal. Then the Primary Outer Pulley and Variator Removal. Then disassembly of the Variator, cleaning of it, and installing the new Sliders. Then installing the new CVT Belt with my jury Rigged Tool for holding the fins on the primary Outer Pulley while torquing the Nut.

THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT -- The pictures include wording regarding necessity to make sure you are torquing the nut and outer pulley against the sleeve spacer and not against the CVT Belt.

If the CVT Belt does not have enough slack at the primary pulley end because it is not seated into the drive pulley, you might be torquing the NUT against the belt. Then the nut will eventually become loose and possibly come off the shaft along with the pulley and do a lot of damage ($$$$$s worth). :crying
 

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You seem to be comparing the thickness of the belt. I think the proper measurement to determine is the width. Service limit is 24.1mm.
 

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That's great. It sounds like we should have no problem going 16,000-18,000 miles on a OEM belt. Considering how expensive they are.
 

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You should generally have no problems going to 23,000 miles on a belt. The important thing to me, is to take the CVT cover off and inspect the belt. I would check the width, and also twist the belt about 90 degrees to expose any cracks. Of course, you need to check the entire belt for cracks, not just one location.

If you start looking around, you can find some good deals on belts. Once in awhile someone will sell their bike and have a new belt on hand. I found one that way. Then I had the belt on hand if I was looking at the belt at night and decided it needed to be changed.

Chris
 

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I replaced the original belt on the 400 I bought in August with a Malossi belt. The original doesn’t doesn’t show any cracks but at 18k miles it was only a tenth away from minimum thickness. By contrast, the Malossi belt was a tenth or so over spec of a new belt. The Malossi belt was $119.97 from scooterpartsco.com.
 

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Thank you for the detailed information, it helps to make the decision easier!
 

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Jeggy...PM sent.


Chris
 
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