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2005 burgman 400 low speed studer

6324 Views 27 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Mel46
Just got a used 2005 burg 400 a couple of days ago with 3200 miles on it. I noticed a low speed stumble between 200 and 3500 rpm during easy acceleration. I think it had some year old gas in it. Put 1 oz of injector cleaner to a tank of gas. I have about250 miles on it now, It is getting about 50 percent better. Any Ideas ? I plan to replace the spark plug as soon as I can figure out where it is.
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I have a 2006 that I purchased with only 2 miles on it. Now that it has about 2600 miles on it I also notice a low speed stutter . I have put injection cleaner in it off and on since I put chased it. Sometimes that works. Other times it does not. I have asked others on this forum for suggestions. I think it has to do with the old fuel, which I had the dealer drain before I rode it. Howe er, since the bike had been started and idled before I actually rode it, I think the bad gas left the injectors coated with something. It may just take awhile for the stuff to finally get cleaned out of the system. I have asked the shop about it and the only solution they can think of is to put the injector cleaner in every time I fill up till it clears it. They did pull my plug, though it sometimes feels like it is missing a beat still. Sorry I can't be of more help.
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Fuel injectors are a closed system - open only to the gas supply from the fuel pump so there isn't any evaporation happening - the bane of a carburated system. Deposits do happen in injectors but on on the scale of a carb. I'd look at the plug wire where it comes out of the coil making sure it is seated well - and there is no moisture under the boot. Not an uncommon thing in high humidity areas. Its interesting that its more common for motors to stumble under heavy loads than a light load. Maybe the air flow sensor is sticking (do they have these?). The answer is probably an easy fix - it usually is - and quite often seems to be from something that doesn't seem to be directly related. One of my hobbies is air cooled VWs - specifically my 71 Karmann Ghia. A problem and the cause are quite often puzzling.
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Start by cleaning the idle adjustment screw. That is the first area that gets gunked up from bad gas and such.
Whenever mine starts to loose gas mileage or runs rough that is my go to quick fix. :wink:
Scootereno, you'll have to show me where that is and how to clean it. Do you take it off or just spray it with cleaner?
Hello All and thanks for the input. I put 1 oz of injector cleaner in it at every fill up so far. I took a couple hours and cleaned the mouse nest out of the top of the throttle body. Cleaned the air intake filter, changed all oils and replaced sparkplug. It is pretty easy to get to after you take the left side cover off. No more stumble idles nice at 1500 and accelerates very smoothly. The Reno Kid.
Mel46 said:
Scootereno, you'll have to show me where that is and how to clean it. Do you take it off or just spray it with cleaner?
Any time Mel. It is under the plastic cover under the seat beside the air filter.
You do have to take the adjustment screw out to clean it and there is a tiny phillips head screw that needs to be removed first. It is a "keeper" screw to keep the adjustment screw in place more or less. To keep the idle adjustment screw in adjustment after cleaning: Count the number of turns to carefully screw it all the way tight and write it down so you can put it back very close to where it started out. Then remove it and clean it with throttle body spray cleaner and the chamber the screw goes in. It may be hard to start the first time with the excess of cleaner in the system but it will also help clear out the injectors too. Let it idle and fine tune your low end idle rpms. After the first time it take about 10 minutes.
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When I get back from vacation don't be surprised if I ask for your help. Since the bike runs fine otherwise, we may decide on a long ride over to that side of town, but we will see when I get back. There will be a lot of things we will have to do when we get back first.
Well, I'm back from vacation. We decided to take the scooters out for a long ride to give them some exercise. When we were on our way home after going about 60 miles, we stopped at a light and my scooter was idling really rough. I looked at the tac and it was hardly registering. I was down to close to 1/4 of a tank so we filled up at a local station. When I started it after the fill up it idled perfectly. I know that the dealer had charged me to get all of the old gas out and I have filled this tank multiple times since I bought it, so this puzzles me. Any suggestions, Scootereno? If it is the idle adjustment it would have always been rough, wouldn't it, not just when the fuel gets low? I am pretty sure that it has something to do with all the old fluids that sat in it for 6 years, but the dealer assured me that they had changed out all of that and run fuel stabilizer through it.
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Old gas will set at the bottom of the tank. If it's not cleaned it stays there, unless it's used. I would assume the dealer did clean it, but they may have not gotten all the goo out!
I would drain the tank myself and run some clean gas through it before sealing it all back up again. Then I'd run 1 oz. of Seafoam for every gallon of gas fro two or three tanks. It should be pretty clean by then.
I know others use injector cleaners, but I've just had great luck with Seafoam and I can use it on my MC as well - its carburated. Besides, it's inexpensive.
Thanks for the advice. I took the scooter out for a run today and it idled rough again until I had driven it a couple of miles. Then it straightened out, so I think I am going to need to clean the old fuel out and get some of that Seafoam. I looked it up online and supposedly Walmart has it, so I will get some tomorrow. Thanks again for the advice. This is why I joined this forum.
I teach a small engine repair class. You wouldn't believe the goo that sits at the bottom of a gas tank. It's a wonder lawn mowers run two or three years with no problems.
I recently cleaned out my MC tank and while it ran ok, the gas at the bottom was nasty. I've yet to clean the Burgman's tank and doubt anybody else has before I got it. Might be something to do on one of those too hot to ride days we have here during the summer. I actually have a long list of things I need to do to both of them.
Well we have been riding since around 9:30 this morning and it is above 90 outside right now. First I loaded one of my dogs in a crate and took her about 40 miles up the road to the vet for annual shots. Then we loaded one of our other dogs in the crate and took off to a Starbucks for some cool drinks. Our 3rd dog doesn't want anything to do with the scooters. I thought all Jack Russell's loved danger, but Katie is the exception. She is the kind that would love nothing more than to lay around all day in the air conditioning and have someone rub her tummy ever so often. Who spoils whom!? As for the scooter, it started up the same as the other day. The idle was rough and it would catch just before quitting. But after it ran for a few minutes it idled correctly. Since I don't have time to take the bike apart and clean out the tank right now, I am about to hear to Wally World for some Seafoam. Hopefully this will help until I get a chance to do something better. My list is starting to grow for that bike. I have all sorts of tail box lights I have to connect to the bike too. I think I can get to the wires if I remove the lower back panel.
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Mel46 said:
I think I can get to the wires if I remove the lower back panel.
I'm glad to hear it. There's a chance it wil all work out without further "drainage" - might have a sputter here and there though.
And yep, light wires are pretty easy to get to.
Mel46 said:
I have all sorts of tail box lights I have to connect to the bike too. I think I can get to the wires if I remove the lower back panel.
Just remember...chassis is not ground...
the plain Black wire in the wiring harness
is ground.
I know this is a strange question but I haven't worked on my bike for at least 6 months now, and I have forgotten how to get those 'buttons' to pop out in order to remove the panels. I thought I had pushed in and they would pop out, but that isn't working, so I have forgotten something.
You do push in the center of then in but just until they click, about 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch. Then you can pull them out. If you push the center to far in they will not pull out. If you have done that then about the only thing you can do is push the center the rest of the way through. Then the remaining outer portion will pull out. The problem will be finding the center you pushed through if the pin is in a place where it can fall down into the nether regions of the bike.
OK, I followed your advice and finally got the center to push in.....all the way through and to the ground. I picked it up and looked at it and realized that it was broken. Luckily I keep spares of those. I found this problem a few other places on the scooter also. I think it is because these are the original buttons and have sat in the same places for over 6 years, so they are starting to break or stick in place. I wonder if it would be a good idea to spray WD 40 on them to help them break free, or would that hurt them?------- on a different subject, I was able to get some of the new lights hooked up but will have to wait for more connectors before connecting additional lights from the top box.
I have a 2006 with sidecar. I bought it used with 340 miles on it. Has 6,000 now. I had the low speed shudder, and it began to stall out at speeds under 20mph. I tried fuel additives, ethanol free gas, hi octane gas, new spark plug....It turned out to be the battery which was a cheapie and maybe the connection points were substandard. Replaced it with an Interstate. No more shudder. No more stalling. Mechanic says the fuel injection was tied into it all, and the bad battery dipping in power flow prevented sufficient fuel to let the fuel injector work correctly.
Now THAT is interesting! I purchased a new battery online when I first bought my scooter. I don't even remember what the name of the battery is. I bought it from The only description I have is that it is a YTX9-BS AGM battery. How would I know if that was a good one or not??
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