[kxj5906]

Hey guys,

As I was riding home from work today, my right headlight low beam stopped shining. I put on the highbeams and immediately both my lights were working, but as soon as I switched back to the low beams the right headlight would not shine again. The left headlight still works. Is this a wire issue or is the headlight dead already?

Do you know where I can buy a replacement headlight for the right side? My model is a 2004 Suzuki Burgman 400 with 8200 miles on it.

I have also heard of other then stock headlights being used (LED bulbs). Could you guys help me recommend what options I have in the other-than-stock headlight options?

One more thing, my Burgman is shuddering a lot when I started. Does anyone know what is causing the shuddering?

 

[Liamjs]

Hey guys,

As I was riding home from work today, my right headlight low beam stopped shining. I put on the highbeams and immediately both my lights were working, but as soon as I switched back to the low beams the right headlight would not shine again. The left headlight still works. Is this a wire issue or is the headlight dead already?

Do you know where I can buy a replacement headlight for the right side? My model is a 2004 Suzuki Burgman 400 with 8200 miles on it.

I have also heard of other then stock headlights being used (LED bulbs). Could you guys help me recommend what options I have in the other-than-stock headlight options?

One more thing, my Burgman is shuddering a lot when I started. Does anyone know what is causing the shuddering?

I can't help you on the headlight thing. I've got a "one eyed" Burgman, kind of an odd bird they put out in 07.

But the shuddering when you take off from a start is more than likely a glazed clutch, like over used brake pads. Its often accompanied by a whine when it gets bad. The fix is to sand off the glazing from the clutch pads and blowout accumulated pad dust. My shop charges $40 for it.

The way to prevent glazing is to make sure you always blip the throttle to 4500 rpm on take off, then adjust your speed. This engages the clutch quickly so there's less slippage, thus less heat and less glazing.

Good luck, enjoy the ride.

 

[Duster]

On your '04 model, both headlights should work,
both on Low beam, & on High beam.
A 9004 halogen headlight bulb from
an auto supply is a good replacement...
providing you bend down flat, the 2 little
locator pins on the metal base....
the pins have different spacing than
you stock bulb...don't need'em.
Your stock bulb is a 35/35 watt bulb..
the halogen bulb is a 55/55 watt bulb.

 

[kxj5906]

Thanks. Do I have to remove the front plasticware to get to the lights, or can I do it reaching from underneath the fender without removing any plastic?

 

[Roger32849]

The proper light for the Burgman 400 is the HS-1 bulb. Philips makes a bulb for it. The Burgman came with two 35 Watt bulbs which provides sufficient light because there are two of them burning at the same time. The higher wattage bulb will place a heavier amperage load on the circuit and will be hotter to the touch. While the plastic may be able to withstand the increased temperature the circuit load went from 5.8 amps to 10 amps.

I found a couple of the bulbs on ebay. The seller did not list them by vehicle application so I had to dig to find them. I purchased these same bulbs last year, so far so good.... The price is fair and the bulb is the correct application for your scooter.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Philips-HS1-PX43t-35-35W-12V-ATV-Scooter-Moped-Headlight-Bulb-30-Brighter-/121170426076?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item1c3651f8dc&vxp=mtr

As far as your shuttering problem goes, when you remove the CVT cover and inspect the clutches (and variator) I agree with Liamjs deglaze your clutch pads... In addition check your belt width, or have it checked by someone with a vernier. It should be at a little over 26mm wide.. Thickness doesn't count as much as width. If you find a lot of debris dirt, sand rubber, or brake dust.. It is time to do a serious clean out and inspection and possibly replace a belt and clean the CVT filter. By the way, a belt is good for a many thousands of miles of average riding if the clutch and variator contact faces are not damaged, or worn out.

Hope this helps

 

[kxj5906]

Wow, thank you so much for the detailed information and the link! I will order the bulb and replace it. I will also inspect the clutch and variator.

One more question; How do I deglaze the clutch pads?

 

[Liamjs]

Wow, thank you so much for the detailed information and the link! I will order the bulb and replace it. I will also inspect the clutch and variator.

One more question; How do I deglaze the clutch pads?

Just take sandpaper to them. They will look shiny, hence the term "glazed". Sand off the shine till it is dull and gone.

The glaze comes from repeated overheating when the clutch engages the bell, either from slow starts or overloaded riding. Eventually the pads "glaze" over and perform poorly. It is very common in this type of tranny.

This is a site to get the shop manual download for only $8. Good luck.

http://www.tradebit.com/G/manuals

 

[kxj5906]

UPDATE: My left low beam light also stopped shining today as I was riding. When I flip the high-beam switch on, the high beam lights immediately come on, but both low beams are dead. Guess I will have to order some more Philips HS1 35 Watt bulbs?

 

[Mel46]

Very seldom have I seen two bulbs go out at the same time. If it is just the bulbs then you are lucky in that you only have to take the plastic off once. While it is apart look around to make sure nothing is burned or melted.

 

[Roger32849]

I had to order a pair of bulbs last summer for my 2004. Both went bad at the same time, or close enough to call it that way. I was in the dark with only my high beams... I thought it was a common fuse, but in fact both bulbs were bad.

 

[Buffalo]

Sometimes they go at the same times and sometimes not. The low beam on my right 35/35 bulb went out about 3 years ago at around 20,000 miles. I replaced it with a 60/55 bulb but left the 35/35 in the left side. Still running it that way. The extra wattage in the right bulb does help when riding dark country roads at night.

 

[TLC]

and clawson charged me a thousand dollars to replace those parts! can you say "Huffy"?

 

[xringracing]

Thanks. Do I have to remove the front plasticware to get to the lights, or can I do it reaching from underneath the fender without removing any plastic?

You can change them from under the fender without removing anything.

Watch this...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HfDbd0zgyKM

 

[Duster]

Find yourself a milk-crate, a 5 gallon paint bucket,
or low stool, & sit yourself right in front of the
headlight lens. If you have watched the video
referenced in the above posting, you will know what
to feel for....peel off the rubber weather-boot,
unplug the plastic plug from the back of the
bulb, & looking through the headlight lens, at
the reflector, you will actually be able to see
where the wire-retainer hooks under the lip
of the latch. You will be able to see what your
fingers are doing, through the small gap in the
reflector, next to the latch-lip. By using 'feel',
& sight, you will be able to un-latch & re-latch
the retainer wire. Remember, the retainer wire
swings off to the side...it won't fall off.
On the metal base of the bulb, you will see 2
'locator' lips that stick straight up. The replacement
bulbs you will be using, may have different spacing
than the original bulbs. If so, simply use a pliers
to flatten those lips back down...they are not
critical....just make sure that the 3 'arms' around
the outer edge of the metal base fit correctly into
the back of the reflector housing.
If you touch the glass part of the new headlight bulb,
make sure to clean the whole glass part of the bulb
with alcohol, to remove any skin oil, otherwise, your
new bulb will not last very long.