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Discussion Starter #1
Was driving my 2003 burgman 650 the other day when I stopped to get a haircut. Came out from the barber and bike had total power loss. Turned the ignition switch and the display didn't light up, no lights, nothing (no horn, signals, park lights). The clock was the only thing that was on and it has since gone off. Checked the battery and it is OK. Swapped with a battery from my other burgman and get the exact same result. Checked the basic things...main fuse is good, other auxilliary fuses are good. I thought it might be the ignition switch so I removed the connector on the back of the ignition switch and checked incoming voltage...it's at ~2.8V. Upon further testing, I found that if I remove the 10A "fuel" fuse, the voltage at the ignition switch goes up to 12V. But, if I leave the 10A fuse out and reconnect the ignition connector and try to turn the bike on, it still shows no sign of life at all. I'm tracing the circuit for the 10A "fuel" fuse to see what's dropping the voltage, but not sure if I'm chasing down the wrong path or not. Anybody ever seen something like this before?
 

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There was and still is a recall on the ignition switch. Has yours been replaced? I have yet to do it on my 03.
 

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Open the seat and remove the cover under the tool kit. Follow the small wires that go from the battery terminals into the wiring harness up to the plug connectors. Take those connectors apart and inspect them carefully for any signs of corrosion or over heating.
 

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It happened to me a few years ago. turned out to be loose battery cables.

They will loosen up with time.
 

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Open the seat and remove the cover under the tool kit. Follow the small wires that go from the battery terminals into the wiring harness up to the plug connectors. Take those connectors apart and inspect them carefully for any signs of corrosion or over heating.
Do this
Do not pass go, do not collect $200

This is exactly what happened to me and this is how I fixed it. The connectors will pass voltage and fool your continuity tester. When a higher amp draw is required the connector will not pass enough juice

Good luck

Blakers
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wow, this is my first post on this forum and you guys are spot on!! Sure enough, the wire from the positive side of the battery that goes to the main fuse via the small black connector passed continuity test and measured 12V at the main fuse. But, when a load is put on the circuit, it can't supply it. Upon close inspection, the connector had clearly been a poor connection and been hot because there was some sign of heat there in the plastic. Looked very similar to the pictures from Max T. Cleaned up the connection real well and it now works like a charm. Thanks everyone for your help!!!
 

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There are some VERY KNOWLEDGEABLE and extremely helpful members on this forum:D

All who replied to this fellow rider in need deserve a big thanks from all of us:wav:

Bill
 
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