Suzuki Burgman USA Forum banner

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
765 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Owned my 650 about three weeks now. Needed some service but I been having to much fun riding to stop and do regular service. Bought with 4319 on the clock for this 2007 Burgman unExec. So with just over 5300 I put her up on the centerstand and got down to business. (BTW, spent a rainy day in LeDude's video training center so I was ready to proceed. And my service manual I got on eBay had arrived so I was good to go.)

Changed final drive oil. Not scheduled but I like to service this kinda stuff when I acquire a new2me machine. Final drive oil looked as good as the Rotella I put back in. Easy peasy. Oh wait, took left side lower cover off first, for my first time ever Tupperware removal. Went well 'cept I forgot that push pin behind the centerstand. Broke it:(. Replaced with one from floorboard till I can get a new one.

Then moved up to transmission. Pennzoil 10w-40. Twice. Yeah, first time when I was draining the used oil into recycle bucket I discovered the crush washer in the old oil. CRUD! So rinse and repeat. Considered the first time a flush:)
Found a very small amount of smudge on magnetic drain plug. Normal right? And saw a little metal flake, very little, in the old trans oil. Normal?

The engine oil/filter next. Suzuki filter and Pennzoil 10w-40. Oil was worn. Based on PO comments may have had 3500 or so miles but might have been a couple years since change?? Overfilled it:(. Had to drain some out to get sight glass to cooperate. I'll under fill and top off next time. Questions: How often you guys changing oil. 3k, 3.5k, 4k:(? I plan on 3k. And do you guys really only change the filter every OTHER oil change? Can't see myself doing that.

Checked and blew out air filter. It was REALLY clean. Topped off the coolant , eye balled the tire wear indicators and buttoned every thing back up. Gave it a bath and rode for blow dry. Question: with just 5k on the OD I was surprised to see front tire wear just a little behind rear tire. Rear tire has maybe 1k left and the front maybe 2k at most. Puzzle me this. A front oughta double the rear tire wear, right?

And finally, sorry for the long yammering .... But why didn't SOMEBODY tell how much fun the 650 would be sooner! What else are ya'll not telling me? :confused:

Sirkitrider
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,876 Posts
Sounds like you did a fine job!

I'd check your tire pressure though. Front should last minimum of 10k, rear 5k. Error on the high side.

Also You should also change the coolant, not just top it off. Recommended change is four years in the outside.

How often do you read this board? Haven't you heard of the Burgman grin? :D We speak of it all the time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
352 Posts
Push pins

After my first oil change on the 2007 Burgman 650 I bought in July 2013, I needed to buy pushpins since I broke 2 of them getting them out while removing the maintenance access panel under the LH footrests. Very brittle plus I'm a klutz. Bad combination.

After a few tries, I found the following out at NAPA and they seemed to fit perfectly. Good snug fit and easy to install. The real test came when it was time to change the oil again in 3 months. These were very easy to remove. Just slip a flat blade screwdriver between the 2 pieces on top, pry up gently, and then the whole assembly pops out. They were even in good shape to reuse. It made removing/installing the Tupperware much easier.

Cost for a pack of 6 was about $5.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,296 Posts
Well done for tackling this and don't fret on the broken plastic rivet - it happens all the time. These are available on eBay just buy a dozen and keep them safe. Post note- I was beaten to this advice by 3 mins.

I think the engine oil has a hard life in the Burgman and I change the filter every time I change the oil - call me a bluff old traditionalist.:D
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
208 Posts
I have done all my own fluid changes, (oil, trans, final drive) and never had to remove tupperware (except for top panel to add oil). Just fill the overfill ports until fluid starts coming out. Takes a much shorter time to do a full maintenance, and yes, I change filter with every oil change.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
735 Posts
Yes I think your metal sludge and flakes are normal. I found a very small amount of metal "sludge" on the engine and "transmission" (reduction gear) magnets on my first fluid changes after buying my 650K4 last August (17,500 miles). After 5,500 miles I changed them both again: no sludge on engine magnet, very very small amount on "transmission."

I did change the oil filter mounting boss so that I could use a better oil filter (Pure One PL14610) which has the standard "automotive" thread pitch used on Honda motorcycles and others. Maybe that had an impact on the engine metal deposits, don't know for sure. I run Mobil 1 synthetic 0W-40.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
I don't understand why the Bergman engineers can't design an easy-to-get-to access door for oil changes. As it stands now, one must remove several plastic push-pins, six or more screws, and a handful of small bolts to gain access to the oil change area. Wouldn't it be nice to have a simple access door that could be removed, or better yet swung open! Just a thought!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
255 Posts
I remove the lower valance panel only to change the Transmission oil, changing the engine oil can be done by just reaching under the bike. I have a motorcycle table lift which of course makes that job much easier. I think the manufacturers don't put access doors because of the complexity and cost to design such a thing and also that they are hoping you'll take it to your local dealer for service.
Greg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,975 Posts
The engine oil/filter next. Suzuki filter and Pennzoil 10w-40. Oil was worn.
"Pennzoil 10w-40" ??? Is that motorcycle oil? if not, i would not use that....
Good question is that Pennzoil JASO MA rated for wet clutches? If not I wouldn't use it. When I bought my first Burgman in '03 I didn't have to worry about oil but in the years since they have added things to regular motor oil for cars that can cause problems with wet clutches.

And do you guys really only change the filter every OTHER oil change?
Yes I pull the filter and drain/reuse it once.

Question: with just 5k on the OD I was surprised to see front tire wear just a little behind rear tire. Rear tire has maybe 1k left and the front maybe 2k at most. Puzzle me this. A front oughta double the rear tire wear, right?
Usually but then again it depends on the brand and care. I had Pirelli's that would both wear out a 5,000 miles. The OE Bridgestones I usually change 2 rears to one front though the front tread is pretty choppy by then.


I don't understand why the Bergman engineers can't design an easy-to-get-to access door for oil changes.
They did it's just on the 2013-up models.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
Yes I think your metal sludge and flakes are normal. I found a very small amount of metal "sludge" on the engine and "transmission" (reduction gear) magnets on my first fluid changes after buying my 650K4 last August (17,500 miles). After 5,500 miles I changed them both again: no sludge on engine magnet, very very small amount on "transmission."

I did change the oil filter mounting boss so that I could use a better oil filter (Pure One PL14610) which has the standard "automotive" thread pitch used on Honda motorcycles and others. Maybe that had an impact on the engine metal deposits, don't know for sure. I run Mobil 1 synthetic 0W-40.
How do you change that mount and where do you get one? I have a few Purolator ML16818 filters that fit the burg now but I wouldn't mind changing to a PureOne if I could.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
"Changed final drive oil. Not scheduled but I like to service this kinda stuff when I acquire a new2me machine. Final drive oil looked as good as the Rotella I put back in."

Isn't the final drive supposed to be 75-90w??? Unless Rotella makes gear lube (which I am not sure about). The Rotella 5w40 Synthetic is top notch stuff and I would definitely recommend it for the engine and trans though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
765 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Sounds like you did a fine job! I'd check your tire pressure though. Front should last minimum of 10k, rear 5k. Error on the high side. Also You should also change the coolant, not just top it off. Recommended change is four years in the outside. How often do you read this board? Haven't you heard of the Burgman grin? :D We speak of it all the time.
Liamjs, Yes I did, and do, check the air pressure in tires regularly. Come to think of it, that might be the reason that front tire is wearing so quickly? Perhaps it has been ran with low air pressure? It mostly certainly won't get 10K. VERY little cupping though. Well it is what it is. Tires pressures are at recommended in owners manual. Both tires solid, no dry rotting just thin on the tread.

Dido on the coolant. I had just had all the crawling and rolling around on the floor I could take for one day. I did pull some of the coolant out with a bid syringe and it looks real good. I doubt if it's the original. I'll plan to change it when I change the front tire .... wheel off will give a little more work space.

And been on the board since May of last year when I got my 400. Yes, I am familiar with the Burgman grin. BUT on the 650 it's more of a Burgman LOL!!!:laughing9:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
765 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Well done for tackling this and don't fret on the broken plastic rivet - it happens all the time. These are available on eBay just buy a dozen and keep them safe. Post note- I was beaten to this advice by 3 mins.

I think the engine oil has a hard life in the Burgman and I change the filter every time I change the oil - call me a bluff old traditionalist.:D
I plan to use NEW oil filter with each change. Just seems prudent. The is not that big a deal EVEN with the Suzuki OEM filter. Peace of mind. Thanks -Sirkitrider
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
765 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I have done all my own fluid changes, (oil, trans, final drive) and never had to remove tupperware (except for top panel to add oil). Just fill the overfill ports until fluid starts coming out. Takes a much shorter time to do a full maintenance, and yes, I change filter with every oil change.
I can see how that would work. Being my first service I wanted to remove the lower left leg cover to get a good look around under the bike. Thanks
Sirkitrider
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
765 Posts
Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
"Pennzoil 10w-40" ??? Is that motorcycle oil? if not, i would not use that....
Well, here goes. I put in Pennzoil SAE 10W-40; API SERVICE SN. Bottom half of donut symbol empty, indicating no "energy saving" additives. I've used Pennz for years in cars and bikes. I'm not married to it. Just creature of habit I guess. Did some reading after yours and others questions about it.

OMG!!! This whole oil thing is the theological equivalent of "how many angels can tap dance on the head of a straight pen"! {yes that really happened back in the middle ages}

I'm confident that it IS fine for the engine. I included in the post to see what the wisdom here had to say about its use in the tranny. SO, it is ok for the wet clutch or do I need to go drain it right now:D? The more I read the more I am confused. It seems to me that a good quality motor oil, changed at 3000 miles, including filter, should suffice. BUT, I'm new to the Burgman super duper sophisticated transmission and sure don't wanna muck it up!

BTW, the final drive oil I used was Rotella gear oil. 80-90 wt.

And it is painfully obvious that I don't know how to include multiple quotes from multiple posts. So, sorry for the multiple post:(

Thanks for your help - Sirkitrider
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
Ok, I didn't know that Rotella made gear lube also :D

I would just dump the oil in both engine and trans and get some JASO rated stuff to be on the safe side. The Rotella synthetic is about $27 a gallon and any auto parts store should have it or get some decent 10w40 motorcycle oil. Better safe than sorry and the last thing you want is trans problems on a burgman.

I use the Rotella in everything I own except my car and it's good stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,975 Posts
Isn't the final drive supposed to be 75-90w???
The FSM call for Hypoid gear oil SAE #90 API grade GL-5. I have used 90W and even 75W140 synthetic I get form work.


Well, here goes. I put in Pennzoil SAE 10W-40; API SERVICE SN. Bottom half of donut symbol empty, indicating no "energy saving" additives. I've used Pennz for years in cars and bikes. I'm not married to it. Just creature of habit I guess. Did some reading after yours and others questions about it.
Wikipedia said:
JASO
The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (JASO) has created their own set of performance and quality standards for petrol engines of Japanese origin.
For four-stroke gasoline engines, the JASO T904 standard is used, and is particularly relevant to motorcycle engines. The JASO T904-MA and MA2 standards are designed to distinguish oils that are approved for wet clutch use, and the JASO T904-MB standard is not suitable for wet clutch use.
For two-stroke gasoline engines, the JASO M345 (FA, FB, FC) standard is used, and this refers particularly to low ash, lubricity, detergency, low smoke and exhaust blocking.
These standards, especially JASO-MA (for motorcycles) and JASO-FC, are designed to address oil-requirement issues not addressed by the API service categories. One element of the JASO-MA standard is a friction test designed to determine suitability for wet clutch usage. An oil that meets JASO-MA is considered appropriate for wet clutch operations. Oils marketed as motorcycle-specific will carry the JASO-MA label.
As I said before when I bought my first Burgman in '03 such newer motor oils didn't exist with energy saving additives. FYI I just called Pennzoil at 1-800-237-8645 and asked the question about using it in a motorcycle with a wet clutch. I was told it is not recommended by them specifically due to the friction modifiers they use and instead to seek out the specific oil type recommended by the bike manufacturer. I am using Rotella T 15W40 which is JASO MA rated.
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top