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I just checked mine at 23K and no it didn't need any adjustment but that doesn't mean you shouldn't check yours.
 

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Mine is now at 13,000, but I am not going to check it unless it starts to
play up, till 26,000 I suspect a dealer would not bother or at least most
wouldn't.
 

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The problem with not even checking them is that by the time you first notice something is not right, normally an uneven tickover when very hot, and slight power loss under full load and higher revs leading to even more power loss as the miles build, the damage is already being done or has already has been done. To begin with there may not be any noticeable symptoms either. The damage cannot be undone without a strip down and it can be very expensive depending how long you have ridden her for with the valves or a valve too tight. And it's the valves becoming too tight that is the problem, not noisey ones that have too much clearance. Take it from me, damage to the valves, cylinder head valve seats and valve guides is often seen in our workshop on all types of engine that have had this neglected at some point. Considering it's so easy to just check them, why not do it. If you cannot do the adjustment yourself, then take it to your dealer or someone who can. It's much cheaper to pay someone to do it than repair your engine later on. Why risk you bike engine by not doing what's needed. Just because someone elses didn't need adjustment is completely irrelevant to whether your engine needs it doing. Don't ignore it. At least check them so you can take the appropriate action. It only takes one valve to be too tight for even a short period, especially an exhaust valve for considerable damage to take place. Owners who think they don't need to do anything until they notice something is not right are kidding themselves as at least some damage will have occurred before they even notice it. This is another reason why I rarely buy second hand bikes as some owners have some funny ideas on how to look after their bikes...no offence to original poster, at least he is asking for advice. Good on him and good on Inferno for making the point he did. Please don't ignore your valve checks.
 

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They are cheap enough, just scrap it and buy another. Motorcycles of this value can be replaced without much hardship unless you are on food stamps or just plain poor. They are a hobby after all here in North America. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Some years back I was a regular on the DL650 (WindStrom) list and, at least as I recall, NOBODY found their valves out of adjustment at the first check. So it seemed reasonable to many to skip that first check. I'd like to hear what people's experience is with their Bergman. I only ride 3000 or so miles a year on country roads, no high speed, no stop and go, so it may make sense (at least to me) to put the check off for a year or two if people are not finding issues, or if all the adjustments are very minor.

Quantum Mechanic, your point is well taken: It doesn't matter what the average is, what matters is where my particular bike is. And I can't afford to replace the bike. Still, I'm willing to take a small risk if most people find no adjustment or only a very minor adjustment needed.
 

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Hi Captain, yes I understand where you are coming from. It's tempting to leave them. But why would you do that? I bet you change your oil religiously. But the valves are really important, more so than giving it that little extra oil change now and again. So it's risky if you don't check them. You are relying purely on luck to see your engine is ok. Whether you thrash it or not the clearances can and often do change. Whether your clearances are ok you just won't know without checking them. I'm an ex-Honda tech, and an ex-stromtrooper (I've had DL1000's and many other bikes too). I've seen many customers, shocked, in the workshop with your mindset telling me it's too expensive to fix the cylinder head or replace it as is sometimes the case with burned, seats, ports and guides. You don't need to run for long with these alloy heads with a tight exhaust valve to do damage beyond repair. My DL did need the valves doing on the very first inspection but never again after than in 70,000 miles. It's often the very first check that some adjustment is most likely to be needed, and then again after much higher mileages. Don't forget the replies you get on here represent only a tiny fraction of the total number of Burgmans out there and it doesn't give much of picture and even if it did, it's pointless as each engine has to be treated as an individual case. Some guys bikes I work on need their valve clearances adjusting every service. I'm talking bucket and shims too. There is no rym nor reason for it sometimes. Just don't take it for granted they'll be ok. Checking them is the easy part, and if they are ok then nothing else needs doing for the next 15k. Adjusting is more difficult for anyone not used to using spanners but it's cheaper to pay someone to do it than to leave it. Just my advice, checking the valves is not difficult for anyone. But of course it's up to you. :thumbup:
 

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Valve adjustment:
1. There are only 4 of them.
2. It's only a 24 cubic inch motor, so it needs all the help it can get. Good grief, the poor thing is a lawn mower engine pulling around almost 600 pounds.
3. See above, by the time you notice a problem, it's too late. Such as burned valve from lack of clearance.
4. I would rather have hydraulic valves, as on my Shadow 1100, but it is what it is.
5. Really not that difficult of a chore. Now the Concours.... About half hour removing tupperware, then you spend 5 minutes (at best) to half hour trying to get the %$#@&! valve cover out of there. There never seemed to be any rhyme or reason, just dumb luck. Then 16 valves, screw and nut, but there are still 16 of them.
6. See #1. Just do it :)
7. I :love9: my Burgman. So I over-maintain it. Through 4 decades of owning various vehicles, found that maintenance, or even over-maintenance, is cheaper than buying new stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK guys, you win. Thanks for the thoughtful and well-reasoned responses, even if it wasn't what I wanted to hear. I'll check the valve clearance. But I'm counting on y'all if I get halfway through with the job and forget how the blamed thing came apart! [I can't figure out how to add a smilie, so please pretend you can see the eye-rolling one] :roll: [Smilie added by moderator to get the full effect of the post :) ]

The last valves I adjusted were on a 1500 cc horizontally opposed air cooled engine in a 1968 VW Beetle. Pry off the wire bail holding the valve cover in place, off comes the cover along with its cork gasket, and there's the valve train, ready for you to wrench on -- while the oil drips down on you, true, but you can't have everything. Ah well. At least I won't have to do this job lying on my back.

Steve
 

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As bad as it looked in my tutorial, the biggest mistake I made was in not labeling the sensors and plugs when I took it all apart.

If I had done that, I'd have been done after a few hours. Because I didn't, I was done only after a week and taking the bike to two different shops to figure out what I'd done wrong.

Chris
 

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Daboo said:
As bad as it looked in my tutorial, the biggest mistake I made was in not labeling the sensors and plugs when I took it all apart. Chris
A trick used when I pulled the power module out of the 650 to change the CVT belt. I bought a package of 5 different colors of tape. Each time I took a plug loose I put matching color tape on the male and female ends. That way when I went to put it back together there would be no question of which plug went where.
 

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Great tutorials!
I would add, if the clearance is TOO MUCH, you will lose power because the valves don't open enough.
TOO TIGHT = burned valves.
(With screw & nut adjusters, "tappy valves are happy valves" :) )
I would also make sure that both exhausts and both intakes are exactly the same. This helped stop vibration on my 05 Concours. It took extra time but was worth it. As opposed to just getting the clearances withing the range.
 
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