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Discussion Starter #1
I have posted in an earlier thread that I got a good look at the Aunty Suzy flat rate chart for the 650.

7.5 hrs !!!!

Has anyone gone throught the 14500 interval yet; I'm guessing not.

anyone? yooohooo......MR. 7.5 hr. service job at 70 hr.

hello?

I hope that I dont have an 'unfortunate fueling accident' just before 14500.
 

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That why I bought the 400

Yeah,

The 650 by the nature of the "bucket under shim" valve adjustment must have the camshafts removed to exchange shims. That's one of the reasons I choose the 400. At 7.5 hours, thats good and if you were to attempt it yourself then go get yourselve a whole range of shims or have a very co-operative dealer supply them (exact ones) as your are proceeding with their replacement. Not a task for the un-mechanically inclined. Luckily they don't need checking/replacement that often.

The 400 took me 6 hours...that was because of all the panels and parts that had to be moved aside. I can't see myself doing any faster.
 

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valve adjustment

My dad just bought a Burgman today, and I may trade in my BMW R1150RA to get one myself. How often do the valves need to be adjusted on the Burgman? What are the recommended service intervals?
 

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The manual suggests that the valves be inspected for clearances at 15000 miles/ 24000 kms or 2 years, which ever comes first.
 

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I would need three valve adjustments on my Beemer by 18,000 miles. I put about 5,000 miles a year on my motorcycle, so the Burgman looks good as far as that maintenance item is concerned. Valve adjustments are supposedly very easy on my BMW, but I pay to have a mechanic do the work.

After the 600 miler, Is it pretty much just oil changes up until that 15,000 mile point? The Burg is looking nicer and nicer. I can't wait to ride my father's new one to his house tomorrow. The dealer is half an hour from him, so he may be surprised when it takes me 8 hours to get it there.
 

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In reality, shim and bucket is not hard to do, and in a lot of cases shims can be moved around to get the desired clearances.

The key is to open her up, and write down and document what shims are in what position both before and after you do the adjustment.

I've done this several times on my Kawasakis, and the first is of course always the hardest. I I usually only have to buy a few shims if any.

I also leave them towards the loose side since as the valves seat they close up a bit.
 

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Guys,

I had a tool to adjust shims on my old GS1000E without removing cams

It is a hook spanner with progressive ramp ...

It hooked under cam next to the lobe and the ramp located on the edge of the shim bucket ...

All you do is push the lever down to follow cam and the ramp pushes the bucket down and you remove the shim with tweezers

It looks pretty tight in manual but I think it may work ...

Worth a look ??

Greg ...
 

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valves

i'm planning on removing the bodywork then trailering the burger to the dealer. ought to take less time that way.
 

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Re: valves

skootertrash said:
i'm planning on removing the bodywork then trailering the burger to the dealer. ought to take less time that way.
Better talk to the dealer first. I suspect some of them would try to charge you the standard labor rate for the job anyway... Make sure they will give you fair credit for the work you do in advance.
 
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