[speedgraphic]

I'm going to check out a 650 tonight, an '03 with few miles, though it has been dropped at no speed on both sides. The owner is willing to discuss any offer, which is the reason I'm considering an '03 at all. The bike is owner-maintained and thus may not have had recall work done on it.

Hopefully the damage will be minor, and assuming it is - is $2,000-2,100 a good price? I've heard so many horror stories of primary spline and CVT failues on the earlier models, I'm wondering if there's any price that will make an older 650 like this worth it. Any input?

 

[Bakeisback]

Any Offer?
I would evaluate the damage. If it is only scuff marks and the milage is around 30k or less, I would be ok. If it needs replacing or wold come off at highway speeds, more than likely I would back off.

Is this an ad from craigslist? Where is the bike at?

 

[ErikDK]

30k miles are not "few" by any motorcycle standard, so I assume it's less than 10k miles.
Since the dawning of the "Polish adapter", there's really nothing speaking against a bargain K3 or K4

 

[miken6mz]

Bought my '04 650 with 17.5k miles 3 weeks ago for $2500 (Seattle area from craigslist). Except for a few lay-down (no speed) scratches in the tupperware that are hard to see, it's in excellent condition. Original owner was 70-something and did summer long-distance touring, 2nd owner was my-age "mature" and only put 2k miles on the bike, it sat in his garage mostly. The CVT primary splines were very clean although it does have a little "diesel noise" (Polish adapter on order) and the CVT primary pulley lock bolt appeared original and had very minor nicks (replaced anyway). Lubricants and drain-plug magnets were very clean (now all synthetic). I'd have no problem buying an '03 or any other 650 in similar condition, especially if you can drive a great deal. Good luck.

 

[Dave_J]

The Polish adapter is a saving grace type item. I have a running thought on how to use two origanal primary adapters with some DOM tube between them and a longer bolt squeezing them tight....

I too would not have a problem buying a low mile 03, 10K miles or less. I could pack 20,000 miles on a bike a year so low miles are what I'd look for. I have a non-running 03 minus all the tupperware with 54,000 miles on her.

 

[TheReaper]

http://fingerlakes.craigslist.org/mcy/3964900453.html

If this is it I think I would pass , you can do a lot better with another $1,000 . Be patient there are deals out there .

TheReaper!

 

[speedgraphic]

This is actually the one I'm thinking about:

http://denver.craigslist.org/mcy/4046972264.html

This one looks OK, right? $3k is obviously too much, but we've been texting a bit and she seemed amenable to a lowball. Really going to try hard to get this for $2k tonight, I'll let you all know how it goes. BTW - thank you all for the AMAZING feedback. And quick, too!

 

[TheReaper]

This is actually the one I'm thinking about:

http://denver.craigslist.org/mcy/4046972264.html

This one looks OK, right? $3k is obviously too much, but we've been texting a bit and she seemed amenable to a lowball. Really going to try hard to get this for $2k tonight, I'll let you all know how it goes. BTW - thank you all for the AMAZING feedback. And quick, too!

I would do this one because of the low miles . Take it for a test ride and make sure it drives straight , then test the transmission on auto and manual cycles and test it with the power mode to make sure there are no transmission problems . If all that's OK then I say buy it .

 

[speedgraphic]

Alright, I checked it out and it has the normal drop-injury cracks in the panel below the footboard and right behind the headlight, but only on the left side - nothing too bad, really. The chrome piece on the end of the exhaust had fallen off, and the tires were original '03s (!).

The real problem, though, is that this model definitely sounded like the dieseling videos I've seen here - not as loud, perhaps, but still distinctively diesel sounding. The lady said she had the clutch swapped out at some point, and maybe some other transmission work - I asked her to email me a scan of the papers so I could see what work was done. The bike did ride alright, and even though I could only get up to 50, manual/power/regular modes all worked fine.

I really, REALLY want to avoid a major overhaul for the next 10k miles at least, so I'm assuming this bike is out - right? Can dieseling ever NOT be an impending sign of doom?

edit: Also had this work done... what the heck do you think this means? She told me the chrome piece at the end of the muffler had fallen off... seems like it melted off instead!

 

[TheReaper]

Alright, I checked it out and it has the normal drop-injury cracks in the panel below the footboard and right behind the headlight, but only on the left side - nothing too bad, really. The chrome piece on the end of the exhaust had fallen off, and the tires were original '03s (!).

The real problem, though, is that this model definitely sounded like the dieseling videos I've seen here - not as loud, perhaps, but still distinctively diesel sounding. The lady said she had the clutch swapped out at some point, and maybe some other transmission work - I asked her to email me a scan of the papers so I could see what work was done. The bike did ride alright, and even though I could only get up to 50, manual/power/regular modes all worked fine.

I really, REALLY want to avoid a major overhaul for the next 10k miles at least, so I'm assuming this bike is out - right? Can dieseling ever NOT be an impending sign of doom?

Post the info when you get it from her email on the work that was done .

TheReaper!

 

[speedgraphic]

Posted - edited into my last post. Thanks Reaper, et al

 

[TheReaper]

I would wait for some of the gear heads here to chime in on this one . I don't like the fact that it was hot enough to melt the plastic on the muffler . That doesn't sound good to me .

TheReaper!

 

[miken6mz]

If the exhaust temperature were hot enough to turn the pipe (or muffler?) red-hot and to melt the muffler cover, I'd be very worried about what it did to the engine (exhaust valves, cylinder head). I'd pass on this bike.

 

[bikerdoc]

Hold on, seems like people are jumping to some presumptive conclusions about the muffler tail end. If it was one of the plastic type, there could be any number of reasons that it melted caused by something external and not related to the scoots engine. Having two executive models AN650K3 in NZ, and a AN650K7 in China, the latter of which has the plastic muffler shield and tailpipe cover, I'd say that there'd be a whole lot of other scoot related items that would fry way before that muffler tip would melt if it was engine, tranny specific.
Speedgraphic, since you have the invoice etc for the work done, why not give that shop a telephone call and speak with the workshop/tech if possible about the scoot to get some inside info?

All I'm saying is, the scoot might be a good buy, and not a good bye... worth a little extra detective work is all.

 

[Flywheel]

I wouldn't fret too much over the dieseling noise. Been riding my 03 for ~14 000 km and its sounds the same as when I bought it. No signs of impending doom.

 

[Buffalo]

From the looks of the repair order it appears the cam chain tensioner failed. That could let it run a little out of time.

If it let it run with the exhaust valves not closing completely during combustion that could account for the exhaust getting hot. The most likely engine problem that could cause would be burnt valves. If it is starting and running OK that is not likely but a leak down test could confirm it.

Running a little out of time could also have let unburned fuel get into the exhaust where it subsequently burned. That could also account for the hot exhaust. That would not likely cause any internal engine problems.

 

[TheReaper]

I would buy this 100 times over before I bought the melting muffler Burg .
http://burgmanusa.com/forums/24-classifieds/60409-2007-burgman-650-metalic-grey-3-600-miles.html

You never know maybe the seller would come down a little for a quick cash sale . The one above in the link is about as good as it gets for a used bike .

That's my 2 cents trying to save you some grief ......TheReaper!

 

[osbornk]

I would buy this 100 times over before I bought the melting muffler Burg .
http://burgmanusa.com/forums/24-classifieds/60409-2007-burgman-650-metalic-grey-3-600-miles.html

You never know maybe the seller would come down a little for a quick cash sale . The one above in the link is about as good as it gets for a used bike .

That's my 2 cents trying to save you some grief ......TheReaper!

Based on what I paid for my farkled out 09, I think the price is high but I do think it is better to get a better one than one that has had problems and been repaired. I think this is the beginning of the price dropping season as winter approaches. Don't limit your search to your immediate area. The one I bought was 500 miles from me. It was worth it to me to get the one I wanted at a price I considered fair. This one is closer to the price I paid (more money but less miles) http://burgmanusa.com/forums/24-classifieds/61050-2009-burgman-650-sale.html . Local availability determines local prices.

 

[TheReaper]

This one looks pretty good also , under 3K . TheReaper!

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/mcy/4049074783.html

 

[Jim]

Well, as an owner of an '03 with 40K on it, I may be biased, but. I've been the original owner since new. Right now, if the thing died, I could walk away and be happy. I budget 2K a year for a bike, and after 7 years for me, it's paid for. (7K purchased new, and 7K for fuel maintenance, ins., helmets, accessories, etc.)

That being said, from the outside looking in, 3K seems a bit high.